Canadian Wino(s)

Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20.  Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available.  Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.

Chile – Cabernet

2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed.  It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced.  It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM

‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586

Aussie Shiraz

2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz

Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines.  This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking.  RM

‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95

VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)

Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend.  Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape.  One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out.  I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard.  2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected.  RM

‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH  050450

Ontario Pinot Noir

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir

The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard.  Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies.  Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards.   There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now.  RM

‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951

Australia – Viognier

2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)

Viognier is a rich and aromatic white.  It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France.  Yalumba is a good South Australia producer.   RM

‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644

Australia – Cabernet

2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’.  The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20.  I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range.  When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability.  So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty.  RM

‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374

France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)

2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008

Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank.  It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years.  The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit.  It should be drinking great now; decant. RM

‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669

France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras

2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)

Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here.  Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs.  At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM

‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398

Italy – Super Tuscan        Collectible

2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95

Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)

Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia.  DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only).  Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux.  The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine.  RM

‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533

Spain – Ribero del Duero

2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)

Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero.  At $15 that is a bargain.   RM

‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee.  Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597

IN STORES ALREADY

Spain – Extreme value

2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95        Extreme Value

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)

Spain has long been a source of great value wines.  At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying.  Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape.  How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often.  If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM

‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743

France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95        Cellar Pick

Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)

Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value.  Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good.  There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first.  2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone.  Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage.  RM

‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso    Ripasso of choice

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

This is a re-release that first came out in the spring.  This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend).   This simply has more flavour and structure.  It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up.  This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more.  Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto.  If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others.  This was released Oct 24th.  Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered!  RM

‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas.  Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523

Cheers,   Ross

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross