Canadian Wino(s)

Tag: rioja

July 4th – Oregon Pinot

by on Jul.03, 2009, under LCBO Reviews

Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.

Oregon Pinot

2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043

Ontario – Chardonnay

2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601

California – Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258

California Fumé Blanc

2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard

1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539

Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois

2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick

Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904

France – Vin de Pays – Viognier

2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier

Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM

‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295

Spain – Rioja

2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008

The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM

‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929

Cheers, Ross

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May 23 – New Zealand

by on May.21, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews

May 23 – New Zealand

More and more grape varieties are being produced in New Zealand.  Traditionally, it has been known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  You can sample the expanded selection at the Design Exchange on Thursday May 21.  Go to http://www.nzwine-events.ca/nzwines_content.htm for tickets ($60).  My choice among the New Zealand wines is Pinot Noir.  The NZ Pinots I have tasted seem to combine some good varietal character with new world fruitiness.

New Zealand

2006 Carrick Pinot Noir, Central Otago, South Island, $39.95

Drink now- 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
This pinot gets a very good review from Tanzer, including a couple of comparisons to sites in Burgundy (a good thing).  Try the Carrick for a good New Zealand example, and go back for more if it measures up. -RM
‘Medium red, fresh complex nose offers spicy red fruits, fresh rose and a meaty nuance…Intensely flavored and serious but at the same time lush and sexy…’ – ST (IWC) 919837

2007 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, $19.95

Drink now- 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Oyster Bay makes regular appearances at Vintages.  This one gets wine of the month status, often an indication of a good buy. -RM
‘…ripe and ready to drink…medium ruby colour and a delightful nose displaying aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and cinnamon…excellent value from Marlborough’ – Vintages 590414

Italy – Pinot Grigio

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, DOC Valdadige, $16.95        Always available

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Grigio
This is a good, easy drinking, fresh tasting Pinot Grigio that is a regular item.  It is Vintages #1 seller.  Great on its own, in Risotto, or with chicken dishes.-RM
‘…aromas of fresh green apple, lime and peach that replay on a cleansing finish’ – Vintages 106450

Spain – Rioja

2005 Muga Reserva, DOC Rioja, $24.95    Always available

Drink now -2015
Grapes: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano
Muga is popular with lovers of the Spanish wines of Rioja.  Once only available as a limited release item, it is now a ‘Vintages Essential’ and regularly stocked.  This is a good pick for an easy drinking, medium bodied red. -RM
‘…big yet supple fruit flavours, as well as notes of cedar, spice, vanilla, and coconut…’ Vintages 177345

Quebec – Cider

2007 Clos Saint-Denis Bourg Saint-Denis Cider, $15.95

Drink now
Grapes: Apple
Quebec has long been the grower of good apples, and producer of juice and cider (non alcoholic).  In recent years, quality ciders have been brought to market. -RM
‘…cherry, spice, plum and florals.  Round yet balanced…’ Vintages 070599

Oregon – Pinot

2006 Next Pinot Noir, King Estate Winery, $29.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir.  Unfortunately, we do not see many of them here.  This is a chance to try an Oregon Pinot at a reasonable price. -RM
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

Bordeaux

1998 Chateau Le Caillou, AC Pomerol, $49.95    Value pick

Drink now
Grapes: Right bank blend
1998 was a good year for the right bank.  This is a lesser known chateau from a top Right Bank appellation in a good year.  At $49, this is very good value given the age and vintage. -RM
‘…aromas of ripe plum, fruitcake, and black cherries complimented by notes of cedar and spice…enjoy with veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 045682

2005 Chateau Grand Mayne, AC Saint-Émillion, $79.00

Drink 2010 – 2017
Grapes: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
90 James Suckling (WS)
93 Robert Parker, (WA)
Grand Mayne is a mid level St. Émilion that has been getting good reviews, in good vintages, since the mid to late 1990s.  The 2005 will make a good addition to the cellar of Right Bank fans. –RM
‘Classic aromas of blueberries, cedar, vanillin, black currants…Broad, rich, jammy fruit flavours…full bodied, highly extracted style…moderate tannin…’ RP (WA) 501981

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, $19.95    EXCEPTIONAL VALUE!

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

Monte Zovo has only been in the Ontario market for a few years but is rapidly gaining popularity.  Their Amarone Riserva is the best value for Amarone in its price range ($54).  The Ripasso is made by re-passing Valpolicella over the left over grape pomace that was used for making the Amarone.  The Ripasso has shown bigger flavour and intensity consistently when tasted alongside other Ripasso wines.  Decant an hour or more if drinking now.  It will mellow and improve over the next 4 or so years.  If you like Ripasso’s, load up while it is available! – RM
‘…attractive nose displays rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full flavoured with opulent dark fruit…excellent candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes.’ – Vintages 023523

Cheers,   Ross

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March 28 – Tempranillo

by on Mar.28, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews

Tempranillo:     Tempranillo is the top grape of Spain, and is especially known in wines of Rioja.  It comes on its own or blended with others, e.g. Garnacha (Grenache) and others.  Medium to full bodied, and smooth, it can be consumed young, but is often oak aged.  It is common for Spanish wines to be barrel and bottle aged prior to release.  The various designations: Joven, Roble, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva each have minimum barrel and bottle aging times (Joven the least; Gran Reserva the most)*.  Ageing potential varies accordingly.  Red and dark berries, plum, tobacco, leather and vanilla (from the oak) are some of the flavors found in Tempranillo based wines.  Rioja is known for good quality and value, starting from about $15 (Crianza) for wines that are ready to drink.  Ribera del Duero is up and coming, and can offer wines with more concentration and character than typical Rioja.  Ribera del Duero has been more consistent over the last few vintages.  2001 was a good vintage for both that is now well aged.

Burgundy 2006, 2007:     The 2005 Burgundy vintage is a tough act to follow.  A few days ago I attended a tasting of 2006 and 2007 Burgundies.  Overall, the reds seemed thin, but this comes after a year of drinking an assortment of some of the earlier drinking 2005’s that were all great, showing the concentration that 2005 is noted for.  Cotes de Nuits showed better for 2006 and 2007.  Nuits Saint Georges was good.  A 2007 Fixin was a notable surprise that offered good value.  The Grand Crus were good, just not good enough to command the $200 and up price tags.  My recommendation for red Burgundy is to pick up whatever of the 2005s is still around.  Some are at reduced price (picked up some 05 Gevrey Chambertin for $40 per bottle a few days ago!).

The whites (chardonnay) were better for 2006/07 with Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne standing out.  The Meursaults were good as well. There could be some good wines for drinking or adding to your collection in the whites.

There was one Beaujolais (a Fleurie) which was light but tasty with some character and a good value at $22.  From the Beaujolais Villages I have tasted, 2006/07 may be good for some of the Cru Beaujolais, especially Moulin a Vent.

Rioja

2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva DOC, $39.95

Drink now – 2011
90 WS – Thomas Matthews
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
2001 was a good year for Rioja, and with 26 months in barrel and a few years in bottle, this one is ready to drink.  Enjoy now or keep it a year or two.
‘dried cherry, tobacco and anise…hot heavy…floral spicy finish’ – WS 114504

2001 Ontanon Reserva DOC, $24.95

Drink now -2011
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

2004 Lealtanza Crianza DOC, $19.95

Drink now -2013
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

Ribera del Duero

Marques de Velilia Crianza 2003 DO, $24.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Tempranillo
2003 is a good year for Ribera del Duero.  This Crianza should be great for dinking now.
‘…strawberry, menthol, milk chocolate, cherry, leather, anise’ Vintages 655399

Burgundy – Red

2005 Domaine Michel Caillot Les Avaux Beaune 1er Cru AC, $39.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine is from a small organic producer.  The lesser known label may account for the rather reasonable $40 for a premier cru Beaune.
‘…ruby red…aromas of cherries, strawberries, spicy beets, underbrush, earthiness…dry with silky refined tannins’ –Vintages 116111

2005 Nicolas Potel Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis AC, $49.95     Cellar Pick

Drink 2013 – 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88-91 Burghound (Allan Meadows)
Morey-Saint-Denis is a Cotes de Nuits village.  While not a premier cru, this wine is from a good village in the Cotes de Nuits, a great year, and gets a very good rating from Burghound.
‘…potent nose of reduction, spice, hint of floral aromas…good vibrancy despite funk on the nose…real freshness to punchy and persistent finish’ Burghound 1104033

Ontario – Merlot

Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002 VQA, Erie North Shore $19.95      Local Value

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Merlot
4/5 stars – Tony Aspler
Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards.  2002 was a good year for Ontario Reds.  Here is a chance to try a local Merlot with a bit of age on it.
‘Nose: cedar, vanilla, black fruits.  Taste: medium bodied, firmly structured…cherry, plum fruit…’ -Tony Aspler 500447

Beaujolais Villages

2007 Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais Villages AC, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Beaujolais Villages is wine ‘from the villages around Beaujolais.  These are light to medium bodied, easy drinking but tasty wines.
‘…brightly fruity wine…fresh strawberry and cassis aromas and flavours…dry, medium bodied…’ – Vintages 112524

S. Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2006 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $37.95

Drink now 2016
Grapes: Blend
91 WS (James Molesworth)
2006 is another good vintage for the Southern Rhone.  Cuvee du Vatican delivers good value for under $40.  I recently tasted the 2005 Cuvee du Vatican and found it very enjoyable, on the lighter side of the Chateauneuf spectrum, nicely balanced and smooth with dark flavour notes, a wine to enjoy in the first 5-10 years.
‘…dark…currant paste, fig sauce, mocha, licorice and fruitcake…taut but fresh tannins… WS 719120

Bordeaux

2004 Chateau Haut Sarpe AC, St. Emilion, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Merlot based blend
2004 is a good Bordeaux vintage (Left and Right).  St. Émilion is one of the big two appellations of the Merlot dominated right bank.
‘…vanilla, toast, red berries.  Dry, medium bodied…plum, cherry, toast and soft mineral notes’ Vintages 101634

2004 Clos de Grand Puceau AS St. Emilion, $27.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is another 2004 St. Émilion, at a bit more economical price point.
‘…bright ruby wine…ripe plums and red berry fruit…lively acidity…medium bodied, – Vintages.  112680

Cheers,   Ross

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