Tag: lcbo
LCBO – March 6th – Chile
by RossMorrison on Mar.31, 2010, under LCBO Reviews, Wine
There is a lot to choose from with Chile. If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux. Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.
Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains. This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.
Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars. Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings. French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.
Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains. There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys. It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging. The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine. For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto. If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.
Chile Carmenère
2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer. Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet. This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker. The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money. RM
‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry. Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230
Chile Pinot Noir
2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours. If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one. RM
‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP) 143214
Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile. It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now. RM
‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800
Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile. Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry. Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places. Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest. RM
‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054
Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella
2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014 $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone. To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months. This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing. The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied. It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi. Try this if you like Ripasso. RM 984997
Italy – Tuscany – Chianti
2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)
2006 is an exceptional year for Italy. This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years. RM
‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210
France – Beaujolais
2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais. Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years. Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character. Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks. RM
‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923
California – Pinot Noir
2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect. Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast. RM
‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish. A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435
Ontario – Chardonnay
2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara. 2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.
‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659
Cheers, Ross
Jan 9th – LCBO Empty Wallet Relief
by RossMorrison on Jan.11, 2010, under LCBO Reviews
True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.
Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)
D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer. Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends. The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity. The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison. The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours. It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years. The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.
2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)
The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as. The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source. GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah. Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends. Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM
‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236
2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips
I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked. RM
‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com 147520
France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone
2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon
The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends. This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump. Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer. Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather. RM
‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716
Mexico –Petite Sirah
2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95
Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean
Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz. Great value for the price. RM
‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke. Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com 983742
France – Burgundy
2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village). It is the entry level wine for Burgundy. 2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003. Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine). I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value. Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money. RM
‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries. Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331
Ontario – Cab Franc
2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank). It is a difficult variety to show well on its own. Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara. This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery. The College Winery makes some very good wines. The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s. Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit). The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price. 2007 is a great vintage for Niagara. Looking for something different in a red? Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well. RM
‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671
California – Pinot Noir
2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir. This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes. RM
‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth. A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620
Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco Cellar Pick
2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95
Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)
Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame. It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins. While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely. RM
‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso
2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)
Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone. The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’. Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes. RM
‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946
Aussie – Shiraz
2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95
Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)
This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available. The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages. Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results. RM
‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273
Cheers, Ross
August 29 – Rhone Valley
by RossMorrison on Sep.01, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé. Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.
Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier. The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France. In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label. Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring. Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.
Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf
2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95 Great value
Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone. Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone. With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well. Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years. At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195
Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras
2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so. Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level. Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker. Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time. If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013
Tavel – Rosé
2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays. Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé. This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309
Northern Rhone – Syrah
2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95 Cellar Pick
Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring. Here is one from the great 2005 vintage. Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours). This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054
2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage. You get some of the character at often a much better price. This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712
California – Zin
2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS) #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30. -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151
France –Bordeaux
2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend
This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol). This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years. Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM
‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666
Italy – Piedmont
2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young. It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit. RM
‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176
Piedmont – Barolo Bargain
2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95 Exceptional value
Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price. The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004). Decant it and let it open up. This wine should be full flavoured and smooth. This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age. RM
‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527
Cheers, Ross
July 4th – Oregon Pinot
by RossMorrison on Jul.03, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.
Oregon Pinot
2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043
Ontario – Chardonnay
2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601
California – Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258
California Fumé Blanc
2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887
Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard
1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539
Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois
2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick
Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904
France – Vin de Pays – Viognier
2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier
Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM
‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295
Spain – Rioja
2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008
The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM
‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929
Cheers, Ross
Bertani Vertical Amarone Tasting – May 25, 2009
by RossMorrison on Jun.22, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Events
To order the wines of this vertical and tasting dinner go to: http://www.vintages.com/vmail/bertani.html
Wine tastings generally fall within two categories: vertical and horizontal. Horizontal tastings are most common with wines of a similar vintage but from different wineries, vineyards, regions, etc. A vertical tasting consists of several different vintages of the same wine. Although there may be a small vertical opportunity (2 or 3 vintages) at many tastings, extensive vertical tastings are rare. When they do take place, a vertical tasting can provide great insight into the difference between individual vintages and how a given wine develops as it ages over time.
Amarone is a big, full bodied wine that is typically capable of significant aging. Even though some modern styled Amarone may drink well young, many really start to shine after about 10 years.
On May 25 I attended the Bertani structured tasting and dinner with some friends at Mitsura. The central focus was a tasting of a 14 vintages of the Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico dating from 1962 to 2001 prior to dinner. There was not enough time to taste, compare, and make notes for all of the wines in the vertical. However some years stood out, and we were able to get a good sense of how this great wine ages over time.
Unfortunately, we did not have time to taste all the wines in the vertical as thoroughly as we would have preferred. A couple did stand out, especially the 1962. At close to 50 years old, one could be skeptical as to how much fruit and flavour would be left. We did not have the 62 until dinner after the vertical tasting. We started the vertical with the 1964 and 1967. The 64 was softer on the nose, with the 1967 jumping out on the nose:
1964: Soft on the nose, more elegant than the 1967. Licorice, tar, smooth, light on palate, plum.
1967: Jumps out on the nose. Go with this if you like a bigger wine. Does taste old – madeirized, oxidized. More powerful than the 64. Bitter orange peel –Seville orange, plume and prune.
I preferred the 64 while a good friend who was with us preferred the 67.
Due to time limitations we raced through the rest of the vertical. The limited notes are due to time, not to anything lacking in the wines. By now we were just picking out highlights or how they differed from one year to the next.
1972: Bitter orange – the better of the two from the 70s.
1975: More bitter
1980: More balanced and smooth – very good.
1981: Bill’s mid age favorite. Very good.
1986: Bitter with green herb
1998: More fruit, less dark ageing character.
1998 seemed to be the turning point for ageing. 1998 and younger had more young fruit while wines older than this showed less of the youthful fruit character and more darker signs of ageing (and smoothened out). This fits with my other experiences with Amarone and a general conclusion that most really start to hit their stride at about 10 years. After that a combination of style (modern vs. traditional), length of barrel ageing, and vintage will determine how well and how long they will age.
Dinner:
We were served several wines throughout the dinner:
2006 Bertani Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC: Very good, light and bright, sharper than the Rosso but more structure. Great with the gnocchi.
Bertani Catullo Rosso 2006 IGT: Smoother than the Ripasso, but less structure. More of an easy drinker, a high quality easy drinker. Smooth and elegant. Drink now. This red blend is a step up from $15 quaffers
2005 Amarone Villa Arvedi della Valpolicella DOC: This is Bertani’s modern styled Amarone, getting about 3 years barrel ageing vs. the 6 years that the Classico gets. This is an excellent modern styled Amarone and will benefit from short term cellaring (another 3-5 years or more).
1962 Amarone Classico: BEST OF THE NIGHT! The 62 has the darker older tones of age but also has retained some of its original fruit and character. This is a beautiful old wine that still shows some of what it had in youth. It was delightful with our main entrée. If you are looking for a very old bottle and only want to buy one vintage – buy this one. This still has a few years to go. I would love to open a bottle in 2012 when it is 50 years old!
2001 Amarone Classico: With 6 years of barrel ageing and 1 year of bottle ageing this is the youngest of the Classico Amarone that is available. It was very good but we could tell that it needs time. While this could start drinking well at 10-12 years, the evening’s tasting demonstrated that this can be cellared much longer.
2006 Recioto Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC: Valpantena is the area, Recioto is the style. Recioto is the sweet dessert wine from Valpolicella. The grapes are dried on mats for about 3 months as with Amarone to concentrate the flavour and sugar. Fermentation is stopped before all the sugar is converted into alcohol. The result is a wine that is sweeter with less alcohol than Amarone, but with the big fruit flavours. Not as sweet as Icewine, Recioto is great with berry or chocolate desserts. We had it with an Italian biscuit that was like an almond shortbread. The combination was simple but wonderful. The biscuit/cookie complimented the Recioto beautifully. The 2006 was great. I don’t see the need to age Recioto. It drinks well young and there will be more produced next year. Order some and enjoy!
CONCLUSIONS: My thoughts of Amarone hitting its stride at about 10 years were confirmed. The difference between modern and traditional Amarone is that the modern ones may be at their best from 10-15 years or 10-20 years while the traditional ones may cellar much longer depending on the vintage. I found that once the Classico got to be about 20 years old, the difference seemed to be more due to vintage influences than age. This wine evolves slowly. With the very old wines, it was vintage influence plus age to create 3 quite different wines all from the 1960’s and all good.
Bittersweet: Lorenzo Boscaini, Export Manager for Bertani, was on hand to talk about Bertani and its wines. He described Amarone as both bitter and sweet. Amarone starts of a very big and intense wine then softens and mellows with age. The sweetness is an implied sweetness, not from actual sugar content. The 1962 was the best example of this with hints of sweetness similar to dried fruit or candied fruit. As the big fruit of youth diminished with age the bitter flavours, like the Seville orange peel of the 1967, show on the palate first. Then they may be followed with a subtle sweet tone, depending on the age and vintage.
If you are looking for an anniversary bottle for someone’s birth year, this is your best shot at getting something good. On the other hand, if you would simply like to try something much older – here is your chance. Pick a year that fits your budget and go for it!
Cheers, Ross
May 2 – Tuscany & California
by RossMorrison on May.14, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
Tuscany: Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans. They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety. Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.
Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).
Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation. Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.
What this all means is that there are lots to choose from. Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.
Super Tuscan
2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible
Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast. 2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans. With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine. Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine. There are still a few cases and bottles in stores. Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat. Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435
Chianti
2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95
Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity. It is a great wine to go with food. In fact, it is probably best with food. If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613
Veneto
2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95
Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto. It typically has low tannin, and high acidity. I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry. The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533
2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle. It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends. Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend. This makes picking blends that you like easier. Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum. Fresh and enticing. Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996
California Cab
2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95
Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet? Here it is. Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877
2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus. It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus. I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit. If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065
2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value
Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue. Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162
Beaujolais
2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar. A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours. Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it. Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532
Piedmont – Barolo
2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now. Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air. I always enjoy Barolo and pesto. Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581
Cheers, Ross
March 28 – Tempranillo
by RossMorrison on Mar.28, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
Tempranillo: Tempranillo is the top grape of Spain, and is especially known in wines of Rioja. It comes on its own or blended with others, e.g. Garnacha (Grenache) and others. Medium to full bodied, and smooth, it can be consumed young, but is often oak aged. It is common for Spanish wines to be barrel and bottle aged prior to release. The various designations: Joven, Roble, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva each have minimum barrel and bottle aging times (Joven the least; Gran Reserva the most)*. Ageing potential varies accordingly. Red and dark berries, plum, tobacco, leather and vanilla (from the oak) are some of the flavors found in Tempranillo based wines. Rioja is known for good quality and value, starting from about $15 (Crianza) for wines that are ready to drink. Ribera del Duero is up and coming, and can offer wines with more concentration and character than typical Rioja. Ribera del Duero has been more consistent over the last few vintages. 2001 was a good vintage for both that is now well aged.
Burgundy 2006, 2007: The 2005 Burgundy vintage is a tough act to follow. A few days ago I attended a tasting of 2006 and 2007 Burgundies. Overall, the reds seemed thin, but this comes after a year of drinking an assortment of some of the earlier drinking 2005’s that were all great, showing the concentration that 2005 is noted for. Cotes de Nuits showed better for 2006 and 2007. Nuits Saint Georges was good. A 2007 Fixin was a notable surprise that offered good value. The Grand Crus were good, just not good enough to command the $200 and up price tags. My recommendation for red Burgundy is to pick up whatever of the 2005s is still around. Some are at reduced price (picked up some 05 Gevrey Chambertin for $40 per bottle a few days ago!).
The whites (chardonnay) were better for 2006/07 with Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne standing out. The Meursaults were good as well. There could be some good wines for drinking or adding to your collection in the whites.
There was one Beaujolais (a Fleurie) which was light but tasty with some character and a good value at $22. From the Beaujolais Villages I have tasted, 2006/07 may be good for some of the Cru Beaujolais, especially Moulin a Vent.
Rioja
2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva DOC, $39.95
Drink now – 2011
90 WS – Thomas Matthews
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
2001 was a good year for Rioja, and with 26 months in barrel and a few years in bottle, this one is ready to drink. Enjoy now or keep it a year or two.
‘dried cherry, tobacco and anise…hot heavy…floral spicy finish’ – WS 114504
2001 Ontanon Reserva DOC, $24.95
Drink now -2011
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages. 725895
2004 Lealtanza Crianza DOC, $19.95
Drink now -2013
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages. 725895
Ribera del Duero
Marques de Velilia Crianza 2003 DO, $24.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Tempranillo
2003 is a good year for Ribera del Duero. This Crianza should be great for dinking now.
‘…strawberry, menthol, milk chocolate, cherry, leather, anise’ Vintages 655399
Burgundy – Red
2005 Domaine Michel Caillot Les Avaux Beaune 1er Cru AC, $39.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine is from a small organic producer. The lesser known label may account for the rather reasonable $40 for a premier cru Beaune.
‘…ruby red…aromas of cherries, strawberries, spicy beets, underbrush, earthiness…dry with silky refined tannins’ –Vintages 116111
2005 Nicolas Potel Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis AC, $49.95 Cellar Pick
Drink 2013 – 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88-91 Burghound (Allan Meadows)
Morey-Saint-Denis is a Cotes de Nuits village. While not a premier cru, this wine is from a good village in the Cotes de Nuits, a great year, and gets a very good rating from Burghound.
‘…potent nose of reduction, spice, hint of floral aromas…good vibrancy despite funk on the nose…real freshness to punchy and persistent finish’ Burghound 1104033
Ontario – Merlot
Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002 VQA, Erie North Shore $19.95 Local Value
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Merlot
4/5 stars – Tony Aspler
Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards. 2002 was a good year for Ontario Reds. Here is a chance to try a local Merlot with a bit of age on it.
‘Nose: cedar, vanilla, black fruits. Taste: medium bodied, firmly structured…cherry, plum fruit…’ -Tony Aspler 500447
Beaujolais Villages
2007 Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais Villages AC, $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Beaujolais Villages is wine ‘from the villages around Beaujolais. These are light to medium bodied, easy drinking but tasty wines.
‘…brightly fruity wine…fresh strawberry and cassis aromas and flavours…dry, medium bodied…’ – Vintages 112524
S. Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape
2006 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $37.95
Drink now 2016
Grapes: Blend
91 WS (James Molesworth)
2006 is another good vintage for the Southern Rhone. Cuvee du Vatican delivers good value for under $40. I recently tasted the 2005 Cuvee du Vatican and found it very enjoyable, on the lighter side of the Chateauneuf spectrum, nicely balanced and smooth with dark flavour notes, a wine to enjoy in the first 5-10 years.
‘…dark…currant paste, fig sauce, mocha, licorice and fruitcake…taut but fresh tannins… WS 719120
Bordeaux
2004 Chateau Haut Sarpe AC, St. Emilion, $49.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Merlot based blend
2004 is a good Bordeaux vintage (Left and Right). St. Émilion is one of the big two appellations of the Merlot dominated right bank.
‘…vanilla, toast, red berries. Dry, medium bodied…plum, cherry, toast and soft mineral notes’ Vintages 101634
2004 Clos de Grand Puceau AS St. Emilion, $27.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is another 2004 St. Émilion, at a bit more economical price point.
‘…bright ruby wine…ripe plums and red berry fruit…lively acidity…medium bodied, – Vintages. 112680
Cheers, Ross
March 14 – Ontario Whites
by RossMorrison on Mar.14, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine. I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time. Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others. For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio. Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.
Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark. My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like. One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative. The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal. It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.
This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate. So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…
Sparkling
Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)
Bestheim Brut Rosé Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method. The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740
California – Merlot
2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery. For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399
Australia – Grenache
2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja. It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth. Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new). Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own. Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry. Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040
Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)
Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95
Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers. Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar). I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab. Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to. Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through. This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423
Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River
2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia. I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level. Big fruit and smooth. This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553
Beaujolais – Morgon
2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay. I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais. It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais. This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village. It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes. Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers. Best at 3-4 years. 112557
Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto
2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid. That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279
Veneto – 11 year old Amarone
1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years. This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years. If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one. Match with big full flavored Italian dishes. My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino. Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634
B.C. St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend
2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95
Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien). It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so). I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004). So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto. Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating. 626325
France – Bordeaux
2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95
Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage). Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol. The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost. These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551
2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland. This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same. Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.) Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298
Italy –Veneto
2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend. The addition of some Amarone adds complexity. No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897
Italy –Piedmont
2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml
Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont. Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators. This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843
Cheers, Ross