There is a lot to choose from with Chile.  If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux.  Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.

Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains.  This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.

Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars.  Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings.  French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.

Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains.  There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys.  It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging.  The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine.  For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto.  If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.

Chile Carmenère

2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer.  Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet.   This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker.  The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money.  RM

‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry.  Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230

Chile Pinot Noir

2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours.  If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one.    RM

‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP)    143214

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile.  It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now.  RM

‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800

Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile.  Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry.  Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places.  Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest.  RM

‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054

Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella

2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014                                            $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone.  To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months.  This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing.  The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied.  It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi.  Try this if you like Ripasso.  RM 984997

Italy – Tuscany – Chianti

2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)

2006 is an exceptional year for Italy.  This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years.  RM

‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210

France – Beaujolais

2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais.  Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years.  Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character.  Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks.  RM

‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923

California – Pinot Noir

2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect.  Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast.  RM

‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish.  A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435

Ontario – Chardonnay

2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara.  2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.

‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659

Cheers,   Ross

True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.

Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)

D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer.  Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends.  The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity.  The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison.  The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours.  It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years.  The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre           EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)

The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as.  The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source.  GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah.  Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends.  Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM

‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips

I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked.  RM

‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com   147520

France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone

2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon

The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends.  This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump.  Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer.  Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather.  RM

‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716

Mexico –Petite Sirah

2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95

Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean

Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz.  Great value for the price.  RM

‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke.  Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com  983742

France – Burgundy

2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village).  It is the entry level wine for Burgundy.  2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003.  Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine).  I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value.  Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money.  RM

‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries.  Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank).  It is a difficult variety to show well on its own.  Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara.  This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery.  The College Winery makes some very good wines.  The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s.  Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit).  The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price.  2007 is a great vintage for Niagara.  Looking for something different in a red?  Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well.  RM

‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671

California – Pinot Noir

2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir.  This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes.  RM

‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth.  A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620

Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco        Cellar Pick

2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95

Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)

Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame.  It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins.  While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely.  RM

‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)

Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone.  The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’.  Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes.    RM

‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946

Aussie – Shiraz

2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95

Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)

This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available.  The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages.  Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results.    RM

‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273

Cheers,   Ross

Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20.  Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available.  Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.

Chile – Cabernet

2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed.  It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced.  It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM

‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586

Aussie Shiraz

2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz

Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines.  This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking.  RM

‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95

VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)

Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend.  Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape.  One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out.  I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard.  2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected.  RM

‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH  050450

Ontario Pinot Noir

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir

The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard.  Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies.  Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards.   There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now.  RM

‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951

Australia – Viognier

2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)

Viognier is a rich and aromatic white.  It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France.  Yalumba is a good South Australia producer.   RM

‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644

Australia – Cabernet

2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’.  The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20.  I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range.  When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability.  So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty.  RM

‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374

France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)

2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008

Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank.  It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years.  The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit.  It should be drinking great now; decant. RM

‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669

France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras

2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)

Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here.  Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs.  At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM

‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398

Italy – Super Tuscan        Collectible

2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95

Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)

Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia.  DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only).  Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux.  The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine.  RM

‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533

Spain – Ribero del Duero

2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)

Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero.  At $15 that is a bargain.   RM

‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee.  Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597

IN STORES ALREADY

Spain – Extreme value

2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95        Extreme Value

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)

Spain has long been a source of great value wines.  At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying.  Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape.  How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often.  If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM

‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743

France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95        Cellar Pick

Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)

Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value.  Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good.  There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first.  2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone.  Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage.  RM

‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso    Ripasso of choice

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

This is a re-release that first came out in the spring.  This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend).   This simply has more flavour and structure.  It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up.  This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more.  Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto.  If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others.  This was released Oct 24th.  Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered!  RM

‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas.  Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523

Cheers,   Ross

The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé.  Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.

Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier.  The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.  The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France.  In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label.  Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring.  Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.

Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf

2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95    Great value

Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone.  Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone.  With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well.  Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years.  At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195

Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras

2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so.  Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level.  Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker.  Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time.  If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013

Tavel – Rosé

2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays.  Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé.  This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309

Northern Rhone – Syrah

2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95     Cellar Pick

Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring.  Here is one from the great 2005 vintage.  Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours).  This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054

2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage.  You get some of the character at often a much better price.  This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712

California – Zin

2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS)    #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30.  -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151

France –Bordeaux

2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend

This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol).  This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years.  Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM

‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666

Italy – Piedmont

2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young.  It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit.  RM

‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176

Piedmont – Barolo Bargain

2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95        Exceptional value

Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price.  The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004).  Decant it and let it open up.  This wine should be full flavoured and smooth.  This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age.  RM

‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527

Cheers,   Ross

To order the wines of this vertical and tasting dinner go to: http://www.vintages.com/vmail/bertani.html

Wine tastings generally fall within two categories: vertical and horizontal.  Horizontal tastings are most common with wines of a similar vintage but from different wineries, vineyards, regions, etc.  A vertical tasting consists of several different vintages of the same wine.  Although there may be a small vertical opportunity (2 or 3 vintages) at many tastings, extensive vertical tastings are rare.  When they do take place, a vertical tasting can provide great insight into the difference between individual vintages and how a given wine develops as it ages over time.

Amarone is a big, full bodied wine that is typically capable of significant aging.  Even though some modern styled Amarone may drink well young, many really start to shine after about 10 years.

On May 25 I attended the Bertani structured tasting and dinner with some friends at Mitsura.  The central focus was a tasting of a 14 vintages of the Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico dating from 1962 to 2001 prior to dinner.  There was not enough time to taste, compare, and make notes for all of the wines in the vertical.  However some years stood out, and we were able to get a good sense of how this great wine ages over time.

Unfortunately, we did not have time to taste all the wines in the vertical as thoroughly as we would have preferred.  A couple did stand out, especially the 1962.  At close to 50 years old, one could be skeptical as to how much fruit and flavour would be left.  We did not have the 62 until dinner after the vertical tasting.  We started the vertical with the 1964 and 1967.  The 64 was softer on the nose, with the 1967 jumping out on the nose:

1964: Soft on the nose, more elegant than the 1967.  Licorice, tar, smooth, light on palate, plum.

1967: Jumps out on the nose.  Go with this if you like a bigger wine.  Does taste old – madeirized, oxidized.  More powerful than the 64.  Bitter orange peel –Seville orange, plume and prune.

I preferred the 64 while a good friend who was with us preferred the 67.

Due to time limitations we raced through the rest of the vertical.  The limited notes are due to time, not to anything lacking in the wines. By now we were just picking out highlights or how they differed from one year to the next.

1972: Bitter orange – the better of the two from the 70s.

1975: More bitter

1980: More balanced and smooth – very good.

1981: Bill’s mid age favorite.  Very good.

1986: Bitter with green herb

1998: More fruit, less dark ageing character.

1998 seemed to be the turning point for ageing.  1998 and younger had more young fruit while wines older than this showed less of the youthful fruit character and more darker signs of ageing (and smoothened out).  This fits with my other experiences with Amarone and a general conclusion that most really start to hit their stride at about 10 years.  After that a combination of style (modern vs. traditional), length of barrel ageing, and vintage will determine how well and how long they will age.

Dinner:

We were served several wines throughout the dinner:

2006 Bertani Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC: Very good, light and bright, sharper than the Rosso but more structure.  Great with the gnocchi.

Bertani Catullo Rosso 2006 IGT: Smoother than the Ripasso, but less structure.  More of an easy drinker, a high quality easy drinker.  Smooth and elegant.  Drink now.  This red blend is a step up from $15 quaffers

2005 Amarone Villa Arvedi della Valpolicella DOC:  This is Bertani’s modern styled Amarone, getting about 3 years barrel ageing vs. the 6 years that the Classico gets.  This is an excellent modern styled Amarone and will benefit from short term cellaring (another 3-5 years or more).

1962 Amarone Classico:  BEST OF THE NIGHT! The 62 has the darker older tones of age but also has retained some of its original fruit and character.  This is a beautiful old wine that still shows some of what it had in youth.  It was delightful with our main entrée.  If you are looking for a very old bottle and only want to buy one vintage – buy this one.  This still has a few years to go.  I would love to open a bottle in 2012 when it is 50 years old!

2001 Amarone Classico:  With 6 years of barrel ageing and 1 year of bottle ageing this is the youngest of the Classico Amarone that is available.  It was very good but we could tell that it needs time.  While this could start drinking well at 10-12 years, the evening’s tasting demonstrated that this can be cellared much longer.

2006 Recioto Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC:  Valpantena is the area, Recioto is the style.  Recioto is the sweet dessert wine from Valpolicella.  The grapes are dried on mats for about 3 months as with Amarone to concentrate the flavour and sugar.  Fermentation is stopped before all the sugar is converted into alcohol.  The result is a wine that is sweeter with less alcohol than Amarone, but with the big fruit flavours.  Not as sweet as Icewine, Recioto is great with berry or chocolate desserts.  We had it with an Italian biscuit that was like an almond shortbread.  The combination was simple but wonderful.  The biscuit/cookie complimented the Recioto beautifully.  The 2006 was great.  I don’t see the need to age Recioto.  It drinks well young and there will be more produced next year.  Order some and enjoy!

CONCLUSIONS:  My thoughts of Amarone hitting its stride at about 10 years were confirmed.  The difference between modern and traditional Amarone is that the modern ones may be at their best from 10-15 years or 10-20 years while the traditional ones may cellar much longer depending on the vintage. I found that once the Classico got to be about 20 years old, the difference seemed to be more due to vintage influences than age.  This wine evolves slowly.  With the very old wines, it was vintage influence plus age to create 3 quite different wines all from the 1960’s and all good.

Bittersweet: Lorenzo Boscaini, Export Manager for Bertani, was on hand to talk about Bertani and its wines.  He described Amarone as both bitter and sweet.  Amarone starts of a very big and intense wine then softens and mellows with age.  The sweetness is an implied sweetness, not from actual sugar content.  The 1962 was the best example of this with hints of sweetness similar to dried fruit or candied fruit.  As the big fruit of youth diminished with age the bitter flavours, like the Seville orange peel of the 1967, show on the palate first.  Then they may be followed with a subtle sweet tone, depending on the age and vintage.

If you are looking for an anniversary bottle for someone’s birth year, this is your best shot at getting something good.  On the other hand, if you would simply like to try something much older – here is your chance.  Pick a year that fits your budget and go for it!

Cheers,   Ross

May 23 – New Zealand

More and more grape varieties are being produced in New Zealand.  Traditionally, it has been known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  You can sample the expanded selection at the Design Exchange on Thursday May 21.  Go to http://www.nzwine-events.ca/nzwines_content.htm for tickets ($60).  My choice among the New Zealand wines is Pinot Noir.  The NZ Pinots I have tasted seem to combine some good varietal character with new world fruitiness.

New Zealand

2006 Carrick Pinot Noir, Central Otago, South Island, $39.95

Drink now- 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
This pinot gets a very good review from Tanzer, including a couple of comparisons to sites in Burgundy (a good thing).  Try the Carrick for a good New Zealand example, and go back for more if it measures up. -RM
‘Medium red, fresh complex nose offers spicy red fruits, fresh rose and a meaty nuance…Intensely flavored and serious but at the same time lush and sexy…’ – ST (IWC) 919837

2007 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, $19.95

Drink now- 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Oyster Bay makes regular appearances at Vintages.  This one gets wine of the month status, often an indication of a good buy. -RM
‘…ripe and ready to drink…medium ruby colour and a delightful nose displaying aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and cinnamon…excellent value from Marlborough’ – Vintages 590414

Italy – Pinot Grigio

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, DOC Valdadige, $16.95        Always available

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Grigio
This is a good, easy drinking, fresh tasting Pinot Grigio that is a regular item.  It is Vintages #1 seller.  Great on its own, in Risotto, or with chicken dishes.-RM
‘…aromas of fresh green apple, lime and peach that replay on a cleansing finish’ – Vintages 106450

Spain – Rioja

2005 Muga Reserva, DOC Rioja, $24.95    Always available

Drink now -2015
Grapes: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano
Muga is popular with lovers of the Spanish wines of Rioja.  Once only available as a limited release item, it is now a ‘Vintages Essential’ and regularly stocked.  This is a good pick for an easy drinking, medium bodied red. -RM
‘…big yet supple fruit flavours, as well as notes of cedar, spice, vanilla, and coconut…’ Vintages 177345

Quebec – Cider

2007 Clos Saint-Denis Bourg Saint-Denis Cider, $15.95

Drink now
Grapes: Apple
Quebec has long been the grower of good apples, and producer of juice and cider (non alcoholic).  In recent years, quality ciders have been brought to market. -RM
‘…cherry, spice, plum and florals.  Round yet balanced…’ Vintages 070599

Oregon – Pinot

2006 Next Pinot Noir, King Estate Winery, $29.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir.  Unfortunately, we do not see many of them here.  This is a chance to try an Oregon Pinot at a reasonable price. -RM
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

Bordeaux

1998 Chateau Le Caillou, AC Pomerol, $49.95    Value pick

Drink now
Grapes: Right bank blend
1998 was a good year for the right bank.  This is a lesser known chateau from a top Right Bank appellation in a good year.  At $49, this is very good value given the age and vintage. -RM
‘…aromas of ripe plum, fruitcake, and black cherries complimented by notes of cedar and spice…enjoy with veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 045682

2005 Chateau Grand Mayne, AC Saint-Émillion, $79.00

Drink 2010 – 2017
Grapes: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
90 James Suckling (WS)
93 Robert Parker, (WA)
Grand Mayne is a mid level St. Émilion that has been getting good reviews, in good vintages, since the mid to late 1990s.  The 2005 will make a good addition to the cellar of Right Bank fans. –RM
‘Classic aromas of blueberries, cedar, vanillin, black currants…Broad, rich, jammy fruit flavours…full bodied, highly extracted style…moderate tannin…’ RP (WA) 501981

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, $19.95    EXCEPTIONAL VALUE!

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

Monte Zovo has only been in the Ontario market for a few years but is rapidly gaining popularity.  Their Amarone Riserva is the best value for Amarone in its price range ($54).  The Ripasso is made by re-passing Valpolicella over the left over grape pomace that was used for making the Amarone.  The Ripasso has shown bigger flavour and intensity consistently when tasted alongside other Ripasso wines.  Decant an hour or more if drinking now.  It will mellow and improve over the next 4 or so years.  If you like Ripasso’s, load up while it is available! – RM
‘…attractive nose displays rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full flavoured with opulent dark fruit…excellent candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes.’ – Vintages 023523

Cheers,   Ross

Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine.  I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time.  Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others.  For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio.  Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.

Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark.  My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like.  One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative.  The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal.  It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.

This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate.  So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…

Sparkling

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)

Bestheim Brut Rosé  Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method.  The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740

California – Merlot

2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery.  For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399

Australia – Grenache

2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja.  It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth.  Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new).  Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own.  Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry.  Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040

Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)

Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95

Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers.  Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar).  I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab.  Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to.  Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through.  This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423

Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River

2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia.  I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level.  Big fruit and smooth.  This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553

Beaujolais – Morgon

2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay.  I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais.  It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais.  This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village.  It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers.  Best at 3-4 years. 112557

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid.  That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279

Veneto – 11 year old Amarone

1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years.  This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years.  If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one.  Match with big full flavored Italian dishes.  My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino.  Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634

B.C.  St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend

2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95

Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien).  It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so).  I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004).  So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating.  626325

France – Bordeaux

2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95

Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage).  Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol.  The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost.  These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551

2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland.  This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same.  Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.)  Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298

Italy –Veneto

2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend.  The addition of some Amarone adds complexity.  No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897

Italy –Piedmont

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont.  Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators.  This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843

Cheers,   Ross