Canadian Wino(s)

True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.

Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)

D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer.  Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends.  The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity.  The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison.  The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours.  It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years.  The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre           EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)

The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as.  The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source.  GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah.  Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends.  Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM

‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips

I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked.  RM

‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com   147520

France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone

2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon

The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends.  This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump.  Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer.  Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather.  RM

‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716

Mexico –Petite Sirah

2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95

Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean

Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz.  Great value for the price.  RM

‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke.  Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com  983742

France – Burgundy

2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village).  It is the entry level wine for Burgundy.  2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003.  Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine).  I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value.  Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money.  RM

‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries.  Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank).  It is a difficult variety to show well on its own.  Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara.  This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery.  The College Winery makes some very good wines.  The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s.  Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit).  The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price.  2007 is a great vintage for Niagara.  Looking for something different in a red?  Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well.  RM

‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671

California – Pinot Noir

2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir.  This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes.  RM

‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth.  A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620

Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco        Cellar Pick

2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95

Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)

Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame.  It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins.  While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely.  RM

‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)

Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone.  The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’.  Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes.    RM

‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946

Aussie – Shiraz

2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95

Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)

This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available.  The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages.  Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results.    RM

‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273

Cheers,   Ross

Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine.  I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time.  Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others.  For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio.  Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.

Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark.  My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like.  One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative.  The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal.  It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.

This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate.  So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…

Sparkling

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)

Bestheim Brut Rosé  Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method.  The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740

California – Merlot

2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery.  For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399

Australia – Grenache

2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja.  It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth.  Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new).  Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own.  Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry.  Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040

Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)

Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95

Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers.  Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar).  I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab.  Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to.  Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through.  This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423

Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River

2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia.  I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level.  Big fruit and smooth.  This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553

Beaujolais – Morgon

2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay.  I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais.  It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais.  This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village.  It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers.  Best at 3-4 years. 112557

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid.  That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279

Veneto – 11 year old Amarone

1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years.  This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years.  If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one.  Match with big full flavored Italian dishes.  My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino.  Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634

B.C.  St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend

2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95

Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien).  It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so).  I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004).  So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating.  626325

France – Bordeaux

2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95

Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage).  Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol.  The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost.  These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551

2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland.  This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same.  Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.)  Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298

Italy –Veneto

2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend.  The addition of some Amarone adds complexity.  No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897

Italy –Piedmont

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont.  Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators.  This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843

Cheers,   Ross