Canadian Wino(s)

There is a lot to choose from with Chile.  If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux.  Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.

Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains.  This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.

Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars.  Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings.  French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.

Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains.  There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys.  It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging.  The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine.  For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto.  If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.

Chile Carmenère

2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer.  Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet.   This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker.  The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money.  RM

‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry.  Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230

Chile Pinot Noir

2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours.  If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one.    RM

‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP)    143214

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile.  It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now.  RM

‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800

Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile.  Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry.  Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places.  Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest.  RM

‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054

Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella

2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014                                            $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone.  To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months.  This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing.  The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied.  It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi.  Try this if you like Ripasso.  RM 984997

Italy – Tuscany – Chianti

2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)

2006 is an exceptional year for Italy.  This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years.  RM

‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210

France – Beaujolais

2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais.  Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years.  Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character.  Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks.  RM

‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923

California – Pinot Noir

2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect.  Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast.  RM

‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish.  A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435

Ontario – Chardonnay

2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara.  2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.

‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659

Cheers,   Ross

Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20.  Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available.  Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.

Chile – Cabernet

2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed.  It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced.  It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM

‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586

Aussie Shiraz

2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz

Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines.  This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking.  RM

‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95

VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)

Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend.  Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape.  One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out.  I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard.  2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected.  RM

‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH  050450

Ontario Pinot Noir

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir

The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard.  Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies.  Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards.   There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now.  RM

‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951

Australia – Viognier

2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)

Viognier is a rich and aromatic white.  It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France.  Yalumba is a good South Australia producer.   RM

‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644

Australia – Cabernet

2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’.  The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20.  I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range.  When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability.  So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty.  RM

‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374

France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)

2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008

Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank.  It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years.  The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit.  It should be drinking great now; decant. RM

‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669

France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras

2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)

Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here.  Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs.  At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM

‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398

Italy – Super Tuscan        Collectible

2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95

Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)

Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia.  DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only).  Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux.  The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine.  RM

‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533

Spain – Ribero del Duero

2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)

Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero.  At $15 that is a bargain.   RM

‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee.  Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597

IN STORES ALREADY

Spain – Extreme value

2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95        Extreme Value

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)

Spain has long been a source of great value wines.  At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying.  Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape.  How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often.  If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM

‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743

France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95        Cellar Pick

Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)

Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value.  Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good.  There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first.  2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone.  Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage.  RM

‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso    Ripasso of choice

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

This is a re-release that first came out in the spring.  This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend).   This simply has more flavour and structure.  It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up.  This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more.  Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto.  If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others.  This was released Oct 24th.  Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered!  RM

‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas.  Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523

Cheers,   Ross

Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.

Oregon Pinot

2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043

Ontario – Chardonnay

2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601

California – Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258

California Fumé Blanc

2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard

1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539

Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois

2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick

Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904

France – Vin de Pays – Viognier

2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier

Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM

‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295

Spain – Rioja

2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008

The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM

‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929

Cheers, Ross