Canadian Wino(s)

There is a lot to choose from with Chile.  If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux.  Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.

Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains.  This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.

Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars.  Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings.  French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.

Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains.  There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys.  It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging.  The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine.  For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto.  If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.

Chile Carmenère

2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer.  Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet.   This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker.  The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money.  RM

‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry.  Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230

Chile Pinot Noir

2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours.  If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one.    RM

‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP)    143214

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile.  It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now.  RM

‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800

Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile.  Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry.  Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places.  Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest.  RM

‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054

Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella

2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014                                            $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone.  To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months.  This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing.  The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied.  It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi.  Try this if you like Ripasso.  RM 984997

Italy – Tuscany – Chianti

2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)

2006 is an exceptional year for Italy.  This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years.  RM

‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210

France – Beaujolais

2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais.  Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years.  Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character.  Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks.  RM

‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923

California – Pinot Noir

2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect.  Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast.  RM

‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish.  A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435

Ontario – Chardonnay

2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara.  2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.

‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659

Cheers,   Ross

Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.

Oregon Pinot

2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043

Ontario – Chardonnay

2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601

California – Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258

California Fumé Blanc

2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard

1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539

Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois

2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick

Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904

France – Vin de Pays – Viognier

2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier

Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM

‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295

Spain – Rioja

2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008

The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM

‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929

Cheers, Ross

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross