Tag: bordeaux
November 7th – Party Wines
by RossMorrison on Nov.18, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20. Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available. Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.
Chile – Cabernet
2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95
Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed. It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced. It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM
‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586
Aussie Shiraz
2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz
Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines. This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking. RM
‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480
Ontario – Cab Franc
2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)
Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend. Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape. One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out. I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard. 2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own. Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected. RM
‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH 050450
Ontario Pinot Noir
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir
The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard. Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies. Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards. There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now. RM
‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951
Australia – Viognier
2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)
Viognier is a rich and aromatic white. It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France. Yalumba is a good South Australia producer. RM
‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644
Australia – Cabernet
2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’. The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20. I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range. When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability. So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty. RM
‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374
France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)
2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008
Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank. It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years. The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit. It should be drinking great now; decant. RM
‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669
France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras
2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here. Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs. At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM
‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398
Italy – Super Tuscan Collectible
2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95
Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)
Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia. DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only). Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux. The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine. RM
‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533
Spain – Ribero del Duero
2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)
Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero. At $15 that is a bargain. RM
‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee. Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597
IN STORES ALREADY
Spain – Extreme value
2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95 Extreme Value
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)
Spain has long been a source of great value wines. At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying. Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape. How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often. If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM
‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743
France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape
2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95 Cellar Pick
Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)
Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value. Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good. There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first. 2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone. Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage. RM
‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso Ripasso of choice
2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
This is a re-release that first came out in the spring. This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend). This simply has more flavour and structure. It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up. This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more. Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto. If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others. This was released Oct 24th. Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered! RM
‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523
Cheers, Ross
August 29 – Rhone Valley
by RossMorrison on Sep.01, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé. Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.
Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier. The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France. In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label. Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring. Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.
Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf
2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95 Great value
Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone. Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone. With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well. Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years. At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195
Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras
2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so. Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level. Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker. Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time. If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013
Tavel – Rosé
2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays. Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé. This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309
Northern Rhone – Syrah
2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95 Cellar Pick
Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring. Here is one from the great 2005 vintage. Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours). This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054
2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage. You get some of the character at often a much better price. This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712
California – Zin
2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS) #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30. -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151
France –Bordeaux
2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend
This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol). This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years. Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM
‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666
Italy – Piedmont
2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young. It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit. RM
‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176
Piedmont – Barolo Bargain
2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95 Exceptional value
Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price. The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004). Decant it and let it open up. This wine should be full flavoured and smooth. This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age. RM
‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527
Cheers, Ross
July 4th – Oregon Pinot
by RossMorrison on Jul.03, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.
Oregon Pinot
2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043
Ontario – Chardonnay
2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601
California – Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258
California Fumé Blanc
2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887
Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard
1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539
Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois
2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick
Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904
France – Vin de Pays – Viognier
2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier
Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM
‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295
Spain – Rioja
2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008
The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM
‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929
Cheers, Ross
May 23 – New Zealand
by RossMorrison on May.21, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
May 23 – New Zealand
More and more grape varieties are being produced in New Zealand. Traditionally, it has been known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. You can sample the expanded selection at the Design Exchange on Thursday May 21. Go to http://www.nzwine-events.ca/nzwines_content.htm for tickets ($60). My choice among the New Zealand wines is Pinot Noir. The NZ Pinots I have tasted seem to combine some good varietal character with new world fruitiness.
New Zealand
2006 Carrick Pinot Noir, Central Otago, South Island, $39.95
Drink now- 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
This pinot gets a very good review from Tanzer, including a couple of comparisons to sites in Burgundy (a good thing). Try the Carrick for a good New Zealand example, and go back for more if it measures up. -RM
‘Medium red, fresh complex nose offers spicy red fruits, fresh rose and a meaty nuance…Intensely flavored and serious but at the same time lush and sexy…’ – ST (IWC) 919837
2007 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, $19.95
Drink now- 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Oyster Bay makes regular appearances at Vintages. This one gets wine of the month status, often an indication of a good buy. -RM
‘…ripe and ready to drink…medium ruby colour and a delightful nose displaying aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and cinnamon…excellent value from Marlborough’ – Vintages 590414
Italy – Pinot Grigio
Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, DOC Valdadige, $16.95 Always available
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Grigio
This is a good, easy drinking, fresh tasting Pinot Grigio that is a regular item. It is Vintages #1 seller. Great on its own, in Risotto, or with chicken dishes.-RM
‘…aromas of fresh green apple, lime and peach that replay on a cleansing finish’ – Vintages 106450
Spain – Rioja
2005 Muga Reserva, DOC Rioja, $24.95 Always available
Drink now -2015
Grapes: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano
Muga is popular with lovers of the Spanish wines of Rioja. Once only available as a limited release item, it is now a ‘Vintages Essential’ and regularly stocked. This is a good pick for an easy drinking, medium bodied red. -RM
‘…big yet supple fruit flavours, as well as notes of cedar, spice, vanilla, and coconut…’ Vintages 177345
Quebec – Cider
2007 Clos Saint-Denis Bourg Saint-Denis Cider, $15.95
Drink now
Grapes: Apple
Quebec has long been the grower of good apples, and producer of juice and cider (non alcoholic). In recent years, quality ciders have been brought to market. -RM
‘…cherry, spice, plum and florals. Round yet balanced…’ Vintages 070599
Oregon – Pinot
2006 Next Pinot Noir, King Estate Winery, $29.95
Drink now -2015
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, we do not see many of them here. This is a chance to try an Oregon Pinot at a reasonable price. -RM
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877
Bordeaux
1998 Chateau Le Caillou, AC Pomerol, $49.95 Value pick
Drink now
Grapes: Right bank blend
1998 was a good year for the right bank. This is a lesser known chateau from a top Right Bank appellation in a good year. At $49, this is very good value given the age and vintage. -RM
‘…aromas of ripe plum, fruitcake, and black cherries complimented by notes of cedar and spice…enjoy with veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 045682
2005 Chateau Grand Mayne, AC Saint-Émillion, $79.00
Drink 2010 – 2017
Grapes: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
90 James Suckling (WS)
93 Robert Parker, (WA)
Grand Mayne is a mid level St. Émilion that has been getting good reviews, in good vintages, since the mid to late 1990s. The 2005 will make a good addition to the cellar of Right Bank fans. –RM
‘Classic aromas of blueberries, cedar, vanillin, black currants…Broad, rich, jammy fruit flavours…full bodied, highly extracted style…moderate tannin…’ RP (WA) 501981
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso
2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, $19.95 EXCEPTIONAL VALUE!
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Monte Zovo has only been in the Ontario market for a few years but is rapidly gaining popularity. Their Amarone Riserva is the best value for Amarone in its price range ($54). The Ripasso is made by re-passing Valpolicella over the left over grape pomace that was used for making the Amarone. The Ripasso has shown bigger flavour and intensity consistently when tasted alongside other Ripasso wines. Decant an hour or more if drinking now. It will mellow and improve over the next 4 or so years. If you like Ripasso’s, load up while it is available! – RM
‘…attractive nose displays rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full flavoured with opulent dark fruit…excellent candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes.’ – Vintages 023523
Cheers, Ross
March 28 – Tempranillo
by RossMorrison on Mar.28, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
Tempranillo: Tempranillo is the top grape of Spain, and is especially known in wines of Rioja. It comes on its own or blended with others, e.g. Garnacha (Grenache) and others. Medium to full bodied, and smooth, it can be consumed young, but is often oak aged. It is common for Spanish wines to be barrel and bottle aged prior to release. The various designations: Joven, Roble, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva each have minimum barrel and bottle aging times (Joven the least; Gran Reserva the most)*. Ageing potential varies accordingly. Red and dark berries, plum, tobacco, leather and vanilla (from the oak) are some of the flavors found in Tempranillo based wines. Rioja is known for good quality and value, starting from about $15 (Crianza) for wines that are ready to drink. Ribera del Duero is up and coming, and can offer wines with more concentration and character than typical Rioja. Ribera del Duero has been more consistent over the last few vintages. 2001 was a good vintage for both that is now well aged.
Burgundy 2006, 2007: The 2005 Burgundy vintage is a tough act to follow. A few days ago I attended a tasting of 2006 and 2007 Burgundies. Overall, the reds seemed thin, but this comes after a year of drinking an assortment of some of the earlier drinking 2005’s that were all great, showing the concentration that 2005 is noted for. Cotes de Nuits showed better for 2006 and 2007. Nuits Saint Georges was good. A 2007 Fixin was a notable surprise that offered good value. The Grand Crus were good, just not good enough to command the $200 and up price tags. My recommendation for red Burgundy is to pick up whatever of the 2005s is still around. Some are at reduced price (picked up some 05 Gevrey Chambertin for $40 per bottle a few days ago!).
The whites (chardonnay) were better for 2006/07 with Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne standing out. The Meursaults were good as well. There could be some good wines for drinking or adding to your collection in the whites.
There was one Beaujolais (a Fleurie) which was light but tasty with some character and a good value at $22. From the Beaujolais Villages I have tasted, 2006/07 may be good for some of the Cru Beaujolais, especially Moulin a Vent.
Rioja
2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva DOC, $39.95
Drink now – 2011
90 WS – Thomas Matthews
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
2001 was a good year for Rioja, and with 26 months in barrel and a few years in bottle, this one is ready to drink. Enjoy now or keep it a year or two.
‘dried cherry, tobacco and anise…hot heavy…floral spicy finish’ – WS 114504
2001 Ontanon Reserva DOC, $24.95
Drink now -2011
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages. 725895
2004 Lealtanza Crianza DOC, $19.95
Drink now -2013
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages. 725895
Ribera del Duero
Marques de Velilia Crianza 2003 DO, $24.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Tempranillo
2003 is a good year for Ribera del Duero. This Crianza should be great for dinking now.
‘…strawberry, menthol, milk chocolate, cherry, leather, anise’ Vintages 655399
Burgundy – Red
2005 Domaine Michel Caillot Les Avaux Beaune 1er Cru AC, $39.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine is from a small organic producer. The lesser known label may account for the rather reasonable $40 for a premier cru Beaune.
‘…ruby red…aromas of cherries, strawberries, spicy beets, underbrush, earthiness…dry with silky refined tannins’ –Vintages 116111
2005 Nicolas Potel Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis AC, $49.95 Cellar Pick
Drink 2013 – 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88-91 Burghound (Allan Meadows)
Morey-Saint-Denis is a Cotes de Nuits village. While not a premier cru, this wine is from a good village in the Cotes de Nuits, a great year, and gets a very good rating from Burghound.
‘…potent nose of reduction, spice, hint of floral aromas…good vibrancy despite funk on the nose…real freshness to punchy and persistent finish’ Burghound 1104033
Ontario – Merlot
Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002 VQA, Erie North Shore $19.95 Local Value
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Merlot
4/5 stars – Tony Aspler
Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards. 2002 was a good year for Ontario Reds. Here is a chance to try a local Merlot with a bit of age on it.
‘Nose: cedar, vanilla, black fruits. Taste: medium bodied, firmly structured…cherry, plum fruit…’ -Tony Aspler 500447
Beaujolais Villages
2007 Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais Villages AC, $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Beaujolais Villages is wine ‘from the villages around Beaujolais. These are light to medium bodied, easy drinking but tasty wines.
‘…brightly fruity wine…fresh strawberry and cassis aromas and flavours…dry, medium bodied…’ – Vintages 112524
S. Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape
2006 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $37.95
Drink now 2016
Grapes: Blend
91 WS (James Molesworth)
2006 is another good vintage for the Southern Rhone. Cuvee du Vatican delivers good value for under $40. I recently tasted the 2005 Cuvee du Vatican and found it very enjoyable, on the lighter side of the Chateauneuf spectrum, nicely balanced and smooth with dark flavour notes, a wine to enjoy in the first 5-10 years.
‘…dark…currant paste, fig sauce, mocha, licorice and fruitcake…taut but fresh tannins… WS 719120
Bordeaux
2004 Chateau Haut Sarpe AC, St. Emilion, $49.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Merlot based blend
2004 is a good Bordeaux vintage (Left and Right). St. Émilion is one of the big two appellations of the Merlot dominated right bank.
‘…vanilla, toast, red berries. Dry, medium bodied…plum, cherry, toast and soft mineral notes’ Vintages 101634
2004 Clos de Grand Puceau AS St. Emilion, $27.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is another 2004 St. Émilion, at a bit more economical price point.
‘…bright ruby wine…ripe plums and red berry fruit…lively acidity…medium bodied, – Vintages. 112680
Cheers, Ross
March 14 – Ontario Whites
by RossMorrison on Mar.14, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews
Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine. I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time. Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others. For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio. Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.
Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark. My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like. One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative. The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal. It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.
This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate. So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…
Sparkling
Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)
Bestheim Brut Rosé Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method. The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740
California – Merlot
2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery. For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399
Australia – Grenache
2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja. It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth. Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new). Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own. Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry. Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040
Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)
Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95
Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers. Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar). I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab. Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to. Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through. This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423
Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River
2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia. I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level. Big fruit and smooth. This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553
Beaujolais – Morgon
2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay. I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais. It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais. This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village. It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes. Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers. Best at 3-4 years. 112557
Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto
2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid. That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279
Veneto – 11 year old Amarone
1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years. This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years. If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one. Match with big full flavored Italian dishes. My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino. Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634
B.C. St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend
2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95
Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien). It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so). I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004). So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto. Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating. 626325
France – Bordeaux
2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95
Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage). Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol. The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost. These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551
2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland. This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same. Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.) Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298
Italy –Veneto
2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend. The addition of some Amarone adds complexity. No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897
Italy –Piedmont
2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml
Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont. Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators. This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843
Cheers, Ross