To order the wines of this vertical and tasting dinner go to: http://www.vintages.com/vmail/bertani.html

Wine tastings generally fall within two categories: vertical and horizontal.  Horizontal tastings are most common with wines of a similar vintage but from different wineries, vineyards, regions, etc.  A vertical tasting consists of several different vintages of the same wine.  Although there may be a small vertical opportunity (2 or 3 vintages) at many tastings, extensive vertical tastings are rare.  When they do take place, a vertical tasting can provide great insight into the difference between individual vintages and how a given wine develops as it ages over time.

Amarone is a big, full bodied wine that is typically capable of significant aging.  Even though some modern styled Amarone may drink well young, many really start to shine after about 10 years.

On May 25 I attended the Bertani structured tasting and dinner with some friends at Mitsura.  The central focus was a tasting of a 14 vintages of the Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico dating from 1962 to 2001 prior to dinner.  There was not enough time to taste, compare, and make notes for all of the wines in the vertical.  However some years stood out, and we were able to get a good sense of how this great wine ages over time.

Unfortunately, we did not have time to taste all the wines in the vertical as thoroughly as we would have preferred.  A couple did stand out, especially the 1962.  At close to 50 years old, one could be skeptical as to how much fruit and flavour would be left.  We did not have the 62 until dinner after the vertical tasting.  We started the vertical with the 1964 and 1967.  The 64 was softer on the nose, with the 1967 jumping out on the nose:

1964: Soft on the nose, more elegant than the 1967.  Licorice, tar, smooth, light on palate, plum.

1967: Jumps out on the nose.  Go with this if you like a bigger wine.  Does taste old – madeirized, oxidized.  More powerful than the 64.  Bitter orange peel –Seville orange, plume and prune.

I preferred the 64 while a good friend who was with us preferred the 67.

Due to time limitations we raced through the rest of the vertical.  The limited notes are due to time, not to anything lacking in the wines. By now we were just picking out highlights or how they differed from one year to the next.

1972: Bitter orange – the better of the two from the 70s.

1975: More bitter

1980: More balanced and smooth – very good.

1981: Bill’s mid age favorite.  Very good.

1986: Bitter with green herb

1998: More fruit, less dark ageing character.

1998 seemed to be the turning point for ageing.  1998 and younger had more young fruit while wines older than this showed less of the youthful fruit character and more darker signs of ageing (and smoothened out).  This fits with my other experiences with Amarone and a general conclusion that most really start to hit their stride at about 10 years.  After that a combination of style (modern vs. traditional), length of barrel ageing, and vintage will determine how well and how long they will age.

Dinner:

We were served several wines throughout the dinner:

2006 Bertani Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC: Very good, light and bright, sharper than the Rosso but more structure.  Great with the gnocchi.

Bertani Catullo Rosso 2006 IGT: Smoother than the Ripasso, but less structure.  More of an easy drinker, a high quality easy drinker.  Smooth and elegant.  Drink now.  This red blend is a step up from $15 quaffers

2005 Amarone Villa Arvedi della Valpolicella DOC:  This is Bertani’s modern styled Amarone, getting about 3 years barrel ageing vs. the 6 years that the Classico gets.  This is an excellent modern styled Amarone and will benefit from short term cellaring (another 3-5 years or more).

1962 Amarone Classico:  BEST OF THE NIGHT! The 62 has the darker older tones of age but also has retained some of its original fruit and character.  This is a beautiful old wine that still shows some of what it had in youth.  It was delightful with our main entrée.  If you are looking for a very old bottle and only want to buy one vintage – buy this one.  This still has a few years to go.  I would love to open a bottle in 2012 when it is 50 years old!

2001 Amarone Classico:  With 6 years of barrel ageing and 1 year of bottle ageing this is the youngest of the Classico Amarone that is available.  It was very good but we could tell that it needs time.  While this could start drinking well at 10-12 years, the evening’s tasting demonstrated that this can be cellared much longer.

2006 Recioto Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC:  Valpantena is the area, Recioto is the style.  Recioto is the sweet dessert wine from Valpolicella.  The grapes are dried on mats for about 3 months as with Amarone to concentrate the flavour and sugar.  Fermentation is stopped before all the sugar is converted into alcohol.  The result is a wine that is sweeter with less alcohol than Amarone, but with the big fruit flavours.  Not as sweet as Icewine, Recioto is great with berry or chocolate desserts.  We had it with an Italian biscuit that was like an almond shortbread.  The combination was simple but wonderful.  The biscuit/cookie complimented the Recioto beautifully.  The 2006 was great.  I don’t see the need to age Recioto.  It drinks well young and there will be more produced next year.  Order some and enjoy!

CONCLUSIONS:  My thoughts of Amarone hitting its stride at about 10 years were confirmed.  The difference between modern and traditional Amarone is that the modern ones may be at their best from 10-15 years or 10-20 years while the traditional ones may cellar much longer depending on the vintage. I found that once the Classico got to be about 20 years old, the difference seemed to be more due to vintage influences than age.  This wine evolves slowly.  With the very old wines, it was vintage influence plus age to create 3 quite different wines all from the 1960’s and all good.

Bittersweet: Lorenzo Boscaini, Export Manager for Bertani, was on hand to talk about Bertani and its wines.  He described Amarone as both bitter and sweet.  Amarone starts of a very big and intense wine then softens and mellows with age.  The sweetness is an implied sweetness, not from actual sugar content.  The 1962 was the best example of this with hints of sweetness similar to dried fruit or candied fruit.  As the big fruit of youth diminished with age the bitter flavours, like the Seville orange peel of the 1967, show on the palate first.  Then they may be followed with a subtle sweet tone, depending on the age and vintage.

If you are looking for an anniversary bottle for someone’s birth year, this is your best shot at getting something good.  On the other hand, if you would simply like to try something much older – here is your chance.  Pick a year that fits your budget and go for it!

Cheers,   Ross

Historically, Malbec is one of the 6 grape varieties used in the blends of Bordeaux. It is also grown in Cahors in South West France, and a few other places. In Bordeaux it is a minor grape, and more prominent in the lesser known wines of Cahors (blended with the Tannat grape). Argentina, particularly in the Mendoza Valley, is where Malbec has gained popularity in recent years. It is a tannic grape yielding deep purple colour, and big dark plumy or red berry fruit flavors. As a single varietal it tends to be tannic but smooth; sometimes with chewy tannins, always deep colour with big fruit- red fruit, plum, or spice. It can range from jammy quaffers to big full bodied and complex wines. Vintages presents Malbec as a good barbeque wine. I agree. It is big enough to stand up to the big flavours of barbequed fare and many fit a barbeque budget.

Argentina – Malbec

2008 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2008, Mendoza, $13.95

Drink now
Grapes: Malbec
87 James Molesworth – WS
Mendoza Malbec can be a source of value wines well under the $20 mark.  This one gets a good review from James Molesworth of the Wine Spectator. -RM
‘Ripe, with raspberry and boysenberry fruit laced with mocha and fruitcake…fleshy and round…’ – JM (WS) 640490

2007 Domino del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Malbec, Mendoza, $27.95

Drink now
Grapes: Malbec
90 James Molesworth – WS
Here is a wine that should be a step up the quality ladder from the Altos Las Hormigas.  It gets a similar taste profile in Molesworth’s review.  The difference should be in evident in additional complexity and length.-RM
‘…mocha and spice filled nose, along with creamy raspberry and boysenberry fruit…lengthy pure finish…’ – JM (WS) 079798

Ontario – Viognier    Excellent Value

2007 Peninsula Ridge Viognier, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
Peninsula Ridge has great whites.  Their wine maker is from Chablis; perhaps this is a factor. I tasted the 2006 Peninsula Ridge Viognier in 2007 and was very impressed: The Viognier was light with crisp acidity and floral notes on the nose.  This would be a good summer sipper.  Very nicely balanced, this stood up to what I would expect from a more expensive Viognier from Southern France (Midi) or Australia, a very good value. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601

Ontario – Cab/Merlot

2007 Mike Weir Estate Cabernet Merlot, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
The Mike Weir Estate wines tend to be good values for ‘buy and drink wines’.  This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ item so if you enjoy it you can go back for more. -RM
‘…aromas of blackberries, black cherry, roasted bell pepper, Portobello mushrooms, vanilla…medium bodied…velvety smooth black fruit flavors’ – Vintages 000109

Ontario Dessert Wine – Cab Franc Icewine

Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $29.95 200ml

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux varietal, is typically used in blends.  It is rather rare to see really good Cab Franc as a single varietal – except when it comes to Late Harvest or Icewine.  Then Cab Franc seems to shine with bright strawberry/raspberry flavours, great with berry or chocolate desserts.  Aromas explode from a good one but they can be expensive.  Try this with a special dinner. -RM
‘…aromas of strawberry and ripe cherry leap from the glass…nicely in balance by a seam of bright acidity.  Sip this Icewine well chilled with fresh fruit tarts, strawberry rhubarb pie… Vintages 053397

Chile – Carmenère

2007 Perez Cruz Reserva Limited Edition Carmenère, Maipo Valley, $24.95

Drink now -2013
Grapes: Carmenère
Carmenère is yet another ex-pat wine of Bordeaux that has done well elsewhere.  It is widely planted in Chile but tends to be young drinking (quaffers) generally.  Perez Cruz makes some very good value wines at the $15 level.  They also have a premium line of single varietals at the $25 level.  Try this for an example of a better Carmenère.  -RM
‘Deep purple colour…intensely concentrated…aromas of plum, leather, smoke, rhubarb, and mineral notes.  Dry and full bodied…plush black fruit…grippy tannins…’ Vintages 670539

Australia – Shiraz

2004 Evans & Tate Shiraz, Margaret River, Western Australia, $19.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Shiraz
88 Harvey Steiman (WS)
Margaret River Shiraz tends to be a bit smoother and more elegant compared to the big Shiraz of Southern Australia.  At 5 years, this should be drinking nicely now.  Harvey Steiman suggests that it has the structure to last a few more years in your cellar.  -RM
‘Velvety in texture…mint tinged blackberry and roasted meat flavours…mildly chewy tannins on the long finish…’ – HS (WS) 606905

South Africa

2008 Porcupine Ridge Syrah, WO Coastal Region, $15.00

Drink now
Grapes: Syrah

If you like the smooth, big fruit Shiraz of hot climates this popular South African one could be for you. Previous vintages have been big and spicy with blueberry and notes of black pepper and spice. – RM 595280

Value Bordeaux

This release contains no less than 8 Bordeaux from the stellar 2005 vintage.  Of the 8 offered this time 6 are from lesser prominent AOCs such as Haut Medoc, Cotes de Bourg, Montagne St. Émilion and Cotes de Blaye.  These less prominent AOCs can be the source of good value as they don’t command the premium pricing of the top AOCs such as Pomerol and St. Émilion on the Right Bank and St. Julien, Margaux, Pauillac, and Ste. Estephe on the Left.  Also, many of these wines drink well when young.  Most will be good now or suitable for short term cellaring (another 3-5 years).  Although these are probably save bets, try one bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Here are a couple of Merlot’s.

2005 Chateau Faizeau Vieilles Vignes, AC Montagne St-Emilion, $19.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 100% Merlot
90 Robert Parker (Wine Advocate)

While most Bordeaux wine is blended, there are a few Right Bank wines that are 100% Merlot.  Some of the most expensive, like Petrus, are all Merlot.  At $19.95 this is worth a try for anyone who likes Merlot. – RM
‘…deep ruby/purple…lovely nose of kirsch, licorice, and pain grille.  Full bodied, ripe…….’ RP (WA) 501882

2005 Chateau Gigault Cuvée Viva, AC Premières Cotes de Blaye, $30.00

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
91 James Suckling (Wine Spectator)

Here is another from the Right Bank that is nearly all Merlot.  James Suckling, who is very reliable on Bordeaux, has rated this Chateau most years since 1998.  It would be very interesting to taste these two side by side and compare. – RM
‘Ripe cherry and berry…fresh herbs, olive, and a hint of coffee and chocolate on the nose… Medium to full-bodied, intense and silky, with loads of fruit pushing through the long finish.’ JS (WS) 500819

Burgundy – 2006

There is no doubt that 2005 is the biggest and most consistent vintage we have seen for Burgundy for some time.  Even moderately priced Bourgogne and Village wines in the $20-25 range from 2005 have been great.  It is a tough act to follow.  For my own cellar, most of those low end 2005s are gone, and I now wait for the better examples to age.  So, while the 2006s may not have the depth and concentration of the 2005s, many will be approachable young, providing some good drinking while waiting for the better 2005s to be ready.  This is the scenario for many regions when a big vintage is followed by a lighter one.  In the case of 2006 I suggest sampling before loading up.  2006 has some good lighter but very elegant and tasty wines with good character, but also some that may be simply a bit thin. Try one bottle first!

2006 Domaine Pouleau Pere & Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir, AC, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Bourgogne is made from grapes from around the region.  In great vintages they present an opportunity to enjoy the vintage at a lower cost.  In vintages that are a bit more variable they reduce the risk of getting a single vineyard or village that didn’t do as well.  At $21 this is a good opportunity to get an impression of the moderately priced 2006 Burgundies that will be suitable for drinking now and over the next year or two.
‘…lovely red fruit, floral nettle and leesy aromas that carry over beautifully onto the palate…’ – Vintages 110270

Italy -Veneto – Ripasso

2006 Terre di Verona Ripasso Valpolicella DOC, $17.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Valpolicella blend

If you are looking for a wine with big flavour, complexity and depth at a moderate price try Ripasso.  Valpolicella is passed over the left over grapes after the making of Amarone.  This one got a Silver Medal from the Decanter World Wine Awards.  Dark fruit and cherry are typical flavour components. – RM
‘Nose open, chocolate, quite rich, dark dried fruits. Balanced, very nice tannins, elegant, good fruits and length’ Silver Medal – Decanter World Wine Awards, 2008 117127

Switzerland – Gamay/Pinot/local varietal blend

2007 Cave de la Cote Morges AOC Grand Viin de la Cotes Vaudoise, $18.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay, Pinot Noir, Gamaret, Garanoir (Gamay and Reichensteiner crosses)

The cool climate and vineyards on hillsides facing the sun produces some very good light and elegant Pinots.  Most stay in Switzerland.  This blend is a rare chance to try what could be very enjoyable.  Vintages recommends it with Salmon.  Chicken dishes would match well too. – RM
‘A sweet-centered wine featuring aromas of red berries, plum, black cherry and citrus.  Dry, fruity, lightly spicy with a good refreshing core of acidity’ – Vintages 123414
Cheers,   Ross

May 23 – New Zealand

More and more grape varieties are being produced in New Zealand.  Traditionally, it has been known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  You can sample the expanded selection at the Design Exchange on Thursday May 21.  Go to http://www.nzwine-events.ca/nzwines_content.htm for tickets ($60).  My choice among the New Zealand wines is Pinot Noir.  The NZ Pinots I have tasted seem to combine some good varietal character with new world fruitiness.

New Zealand

2006 Carrick Pinot Noir, Central Otago, South Island, $39.95

Drink now- 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
This pinot gets a very good review from Tanzer, including a couple of comparisons to sites in Burgundy (a good thing).  Try the Carrick for a good New Zealand example, and go back for more if it measures up. -RM
‘Medium red, fresh complex nose offers spicy red fruits, fresh rose and a meaty nuance…Intensely flavored and serious but at the same time lush and sexy…’ – ST (IWC) 919837

2007 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, $19.95

Drink now- 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Stephen Tanzer (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Oyster Bay makes regular appearances at Vintages.  This one gets wine of the month status, often an indication of a good buy. -RM
‘…ripe and ready to drink…medium ruby colour and a delightful nose displaying aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and cinnamon…excellent value from Marlborough’ – Vintages 590414

Italy – Pinot Grigio

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, DOC Valdadige, $16.95        Always available

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Grigio
This is a good, easy drinking, fresh tasting Pinot Grigio that is a regular item.  It is Vintages #1 seller.  Great on its own, in Risotto, or with chicken dishes.-RM
‘…aromas of fresh green apple, lime and peach that replay on a cleansing finish’ – Vintages 106450

Spain – Rioja

2005 Muga Reserva, DOC Rioja, $24.95    Always available

Drink now -2015
Grapes: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano
Muga is popular with lovers of the Spanish wines of Rioja.  Once only available as a limited release item, it is now a ‘Vintages Essential’ and regularly stocked.  This is a good pick for an easy drinking, medium bodied red. -RM
‘…big yet supple fruit flavours, as well as notes of cedar, spice, vanilla, and coconut…’ Vintages 177345

Quebec – Cider

2007 Clos Saint-Denis Bourg Saint-Denis Cider, $15.95

Drink now
Grapes: Apple
Quebec has long been the grower of good apples, and producer of juice and cider (non alcoholic).  In recent years, quality ciders have been brought to market. -RM
‘…cherry, spice, plum and florals.  Round yet balanced…’ Vintages 070599

Oregon – Pinot

2006 Next Pinot Noir, King Estate Winery, $29.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir.  Unfortunately, we do not see many of them here.  This is a chance to try an Oregon Pinot at a reasonable price. -RM
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

Bordeaux

1998 Chateau Le Caillou, AC Pomerol, $49.95    Value pick

Drink now
Grapes: Right bank blend
1998 was a good year for the right bank.  This is a lesser known chateau from a top Right Bank appellation in a good year.  At $49, this is very good value given the age and vintage. -RM
‘…aromas of ripe plum, fruitcake, and black cherries complimented by notes of cedar and spice…enjoy with veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 045682

2005 Chateau Grand Mayne, AC Saint-Émillion, $79.00

Drink 2010 – 2017
Grapes: 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
90 James Suckling (WS)
93 Robert Parker, (WA)
Grand Mayne is a mid level St. Émilion that has been getting good reviews, in good vintages, since the mid to late 1990s.  The 2005 will make a good addition to the cellar of Right Bank fans. –RM
‘Classic aromas of blueberries, cedar, vanillin, black currants…Broad, rich, jammy fruit flavours…full bodied, highly extracted style…moderate tannin…’ RP (WA) 501981

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, $19.95    EXCEPTIONAL VALUE!

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

Monte Zovo has only been in the Ontario market for a few years but is rapidly gaining popularity.  Their Amarone Riserva is the best value for Amarone in its price range ($54).  The Ripasso is made by re-passing Valpolicella over the left over grape pomace that was used for making the Amarone.  The Ripasso has shown bigger flavour and intensity consistently when tasted alongside other Ripasso wines.  Decant an hour or more if drinking now.  It will mellow and improve over the next 4 or so years.  If you like Ripasso’s, load up while it is available! – RM
‘…attractive nose displays rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full flavoured with opulent dark fruit…excellent candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes.’ – Vintages 023523

Cheers,   Ross

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross

Tempranillo:     Tempranillo is the top grape of Spain, and is especially known in wines of Rioja.  It comes on its own or blended with others, e.g. Garnacha (Grenache) and others.  Medium to full bodied, and smooth, it can be consumed young, but is often oak aged.  It is common for Spanish wines to be barrel and bottle aged prior to release.  The various designations: Joven, Roble, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva each have minimum barrel and bottle aging times (Joven the least; Gran Reserva the most)*.  Ageing potential varies accordingly.  Red and dark berries, plum, tobacco, leather and vanilla (from the oak) are some of the flavors found in Tempranillo based wines.  Rioja is known for good quality and value, starting from about $15 (Crianza) for wines that are ready to drink.  Ribera del Duero is up and coming, and can offer wines with more concentration and character than typical Rioja.  Ribera del Duero has been more consistent over the last few vintages.  2001 was a good vintage for both that is now well aged.

Burgundy 2006, 2007:     The 2005 Burgundy vintage is a tough act to follow.  A few days ago I attended a tasting of 2006 and 2007 Burgundies.  Overall, the reds seemed thin, but this comes after a year of drinking an assortment of some of the earlier drinking 2005’s that were all great, showing the concentration that 2005 is noted for.  Cotes de Nuits showed better for 2006 and 2007.  Nuits Saint Georges was good.  A 2007 Fixin was a notable surprise that offered good value.  The Grand Crus were good, just not good enough to command the $200 and up price tags.  My recommendation for red Burgundy is to pick up whatever of the 2005s is still around.  Some are at reduced price (picked up some 05 Gevrey Chambertin for $40 per bottle a few days ago!).

The whites (chardonnay) were better for 2006/07 with Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne standing out.  The Meursaults were good as well. There could be some good wines for drinking or adding to your collection in the whites.

There was one Beaujolais (a Fleurie) which was light but tasty with some character and a good value at $22.  From the Beaujolais Villages I have tasted, 2006/07 may be good for some of the Cru Beaujolais, especially Moulin a Vent.

Rioja

2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva DOC, $39.95

Drink now – 2011
90 WS – Thomas Matthews
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
2001 was a good year for Rioja, and with 26 months in barrel and a few years in bottle, this one is ready to drink.  Enjoy now or keep it a year or two.
‘dried cherry, tobacco and anise…hot heavy…floral spicy finish’ – WS 114504

2001 Ontanon Reserva DOC, $24.95

Drink now -2011
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

2004 Lealtanza Crianza DOC, $19.95

Drink now -2013
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

Ribera del Duero

Marques de Velilia Crianza 2003 DO, $24.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Tempranillo
2003 is a good year for Ribera del Duero.  This Crianza should be great for dinking now.
‘…strawberry, menthol, milk chocolate, cherry, leather, anise’ Vintages 655399

Burgundy – Red

2005 Domaine Michel Caillot Les Avaux Beaune 1er Cru AC, $39.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine is from a small organic producer.  The lesser known label may account for the rather reasonable $40 for a premier cru Beaune.
‘…ruby red…aromas of cherries, strawberries, spicy beets, underbrush, earthiness…dry with silky refined tannins’ –Vintages 116111

2005 Nicolas Potel Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis AC, $49.95     Cellar Pick

Drink 2013 – 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88-91 Burghound (Allan Meadows)
Morey-Saint-Denis is a Cotes de Nuits village.  While not a premier cru, this wine is from a good village in the Cotes de Nuits, a great year, and gets a very good rating from Burghound.
‘…potent nose of reduction, spice, hint of floral aromas…good vibrancy despite funk on the nose…real freshness to punchy and persistent finish’ Burghound 1104033

Ontario – Merlot

Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002 VQA, Erie North Shore $19.95      Local Value

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Merlot
4/5 stars – Tony Aspler
Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards.  2002 was a good year for Ontario Reds.  Here is a chance to try a local Merlot with a bit of age on it.
‘Nose: cedar, vanilla, black fruits.  Taste: medium bodied, firmly structured…cherry, plum fruit…’ -Tony Aspler 500447

Beaujolais Villages

2007 Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais Villages AC, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Beaujolais Villages is wine ‘from the villages around Beaujolais.  These are light to medium bodied, easy drinking but tasty wines.
‘…brightly fruity wine…fresh strawberry and cassis aromas and flavours…dry, medium bodied…’ – Vintages 112524

S. Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2006 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $37.95

Drink now 2016
Grapes: Blend
91 WS (James Molesworth)
2006 is another good vintage for the Southern Rhone.  Cuvee du Vatican delivers good value for under $40.  I recently tasted the 2005 Cuvee du Vatican and found it very enjoyable, on the lighter side of the Chateauneuf spectrum, nicely balanced and smooth with dark flavour notes, a wine to enjoy in the first 5-10 years.
‘…dark…currant paste, fig sauce, mocha, licorice and fruitcake…taut but fresh tannins… WS 719120

Bordeaux

2004 Chateau Haut Sarpe AC, St. Emilion, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Merlot based blend
2004 is a good Bordeaux vintage (Left and Right).  St. Émilion is one of the big two appellations of the Merlot dominated right bank.
‘…vanilla, toast, red berries.  Dry, medium bodied…plum, cherry, toast and soft mineral notes’ Vintages 101634

2004 Clos de Grand Puceau AS St. Emilion, $27.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is another 2004 St. Émilion, at a bit more economical price point.
‘…bright ruby wine…ripe plums and red berry fruit…lively acidity…medium bodied, – Vintages.  112680

Cheers,   Ross

Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine.  I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time.  Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others.  For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio.  Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.

Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark.  My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like.  One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative.  The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal.  It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.

This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate.  So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…

Sparkling

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)

Bestheim Brut Rosé  Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method.  The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740

California – Merlot

2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery.  For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399

Australia – Grenache

2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja.  It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth.  Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new).  Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own.  Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry.  Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040

Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)

Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95

Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers.  Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar).  I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab.  Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to.  Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through.  This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423

Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River

2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia.  I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level.  Big fruit and smooth.  This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553

Beaujolais – Morgon

2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay.  I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais.  It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais.  This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village.  It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers.  Best at 3-4 years. 112557

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid.  That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279

Veneto – 11 year old Amarone

1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years.  This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years.  If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one.  Match with big full flavored Italian dishes.  My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino.  Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634

B.C.  St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend

2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95

Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien).  It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so).  I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004).  So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating.  626325

France – Bordeaux

2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95

Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage).  Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol.  The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost.  These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551

2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland.  This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same.  Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.)  Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298

Italy –Veneto

2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend.  The addition of some Amarone adds complexity.  No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897

Italy –Piedmont

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont.  Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators.  This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843

Cheers,   Ross