Wine Reviews
LCBO – March 6th – Chile
by RossMorrison on Mar.31, 2010, under LCBO Reviews, Wine
There is a lot to choose from with Chile. If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux. Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.
Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains. This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.
Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars. Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings. French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.
Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains. There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys. It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging. The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine. For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto. If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.
Chile Carmenère
2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer. Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet. This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker. The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money. RM
‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry. Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230
Chile Pinot Noir
2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours. If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one. RM
‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP) 143214
Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile. It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now. RM
‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800
Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile. Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry. Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places. Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest. RM
‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054
Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella
2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014 $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone. To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months. This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing. The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied. It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi. Try this if you like Ripasso. RM 984997
Italy – Tuscany – Chianti
2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)
2006 is an exceptional year for Italy. This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years. RM
‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210
France – Beaujolais
2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais. Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years. Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character. Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks. RM
‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923
California – Pinot Noir
2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect. Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast. RM
‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish. A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435
Ontario – Chardonnay
2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara. 2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.
‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659
Cheers, Ross
Jan 9th – LCBO Empty Wallet Relief
by RossMorrison on Jan.11, 2010, under LCBO Reviews
True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.
Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)
D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer. Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends. The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity. The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison. The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours. It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years. The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.
2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)
The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as. The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source. GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah. Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends. Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM
‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236
2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips
I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked. RM
‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com 147520
France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone
2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon
The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends. This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump. Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer. Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather. RM
‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716
Mexico –Petite Sirah
2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95
Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean
Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz. Great value for the price. RM
‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke. Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com 983742
France – Burgundy
2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village). It is the entry level wine for Burgundy. 2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003. Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine). I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value. Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money. RM
‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries. Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331
Ontario – Cab Franc
2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank). It is a difficult variety to show well on its own. Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara. This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery. The College Winery makes some very good wines. The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s. Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit). The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price. 2007 is a great vintage for Niagara. Looking for something different in a red? Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well. RM
‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671
California – Pinot Noir
2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir. This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes. RM
‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth. A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620
Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco Cellar Pick
2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95
Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)
Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame. It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins. While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely. RM
‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso
2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)
Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone. The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’. Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes. RM
‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946
Aussie – Shiraz
2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95
Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)
This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available. The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages. Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results. RM
‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273
Cheers, Ross
November 7th – Party Wines
by RossMorrison on Nov.18, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20. Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available. Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.
Chile – Cabernet
2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95
Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed. It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced. It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM
‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586
Aussie Shiraz
2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz
Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines. This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking. RM
‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480
Ontario – Cab Franc
2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)
Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend. Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape. One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out. I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard. 2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own. Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected. RM
‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH 050450
Ontario Pinot Noir
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir
The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard. Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies. Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards. There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now. RM
‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951
Australia – Viognier
2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)
Viognier is a rich and aromatic white. It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France. Yalumba is a good South Australia producer. RM
‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644
Australia – Cabernet
2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’. The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20. I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range. When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability. So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty. RM
‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374
France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)
2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008
Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank. It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years. The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit. It should be drinking great now; decant. RM
‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669
France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras
2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)
Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here. Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs. At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM
‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398
Italy – Super Tuscan Collectible
2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95
Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)
Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia. DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only). Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux. The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine. RM
‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533
Spain – Ribero del Duero
2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)
Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero. At $15 that is a bargain. RM
‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee. Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597
IN STORES ALREADY
Spain – Extreme value
2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95 Extreme Value
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)
Spain has long been a source of great value wines. At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying. Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape. How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often. If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM
‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743
France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape
2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95 Cellar Pick
Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)
Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value. Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good. There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first. 2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone. Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage. RM
‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso Ripasso of choice
2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
This is a re-release that first came out in the spring. This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend). This simply has more flavour and structure. It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up. This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more. Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto. If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others. This was released Oct 24th. Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered! RM
‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas. Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523
Cheers, Ross
Nov 1 – Special Items
by RossMorrison on Nov.06, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Here are a couple of wines that may be of particular interest ($40, and $20) that are available in limited quantity.
Italy – Piedmont – Super Piedmont blend
2005 Tenuta Rocca Langhe Rosso Ornati $40
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Nebbiolo (Barolo), 25% Barbera
90 RM
ORDER FROM Ex Cellars (agent) in 6 packs for immediate delivery.
To order, email HYPERLINK “mailto:nuray@ex-cellars.ca” nuray@ex-cellars.ca or call her at 416-822-8187.
This is a consignment wine (brought in by the agent) that I tasted and wrote about back in March. This blend is the first of its kind I have seen and is in tune with the global trend towards blending big grapes of Bordeaux (Cab and sometimes Merlot) with local indigenous grapes of other regions. Nebbiolo is the grape that goes into Barolo (lots of depth and character). Barbera is one of Italy’s most prolific grapes and adds fruit and acidity. Only about 400 cases are made. This is an opportunity to enjoy a rare and tasty wine with good value for the price.
The 2005 Langhe Rosso Ornati has arrived and there are a few 6 packs still available. A good friend and I have both sampled this wine again now that it is here and were very impressed.
Oct 2009: Deep ruby colour. Black currant, plum, leather, earth, smooth, medium bodied, balanced. Drink over next 5 years. 90-91, 3.5/5 good value for the money. Good complexity. RM
Spain – Blend – Vintages Online only
2005 Solar de Urbezo Crianza DO Cariñena, $20
Drink now
Grapes: 40% Tempranillo, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Syrah
90 – Jay Miller (WA)
89 – RM
90 Bottles available at Vintages online.
Here is another blend of Bordeaux and local grapes, this time from Spain: Bright ruby colour, dark berry notes on nose, mineral notes and hint of spice, and slight earthy tone. Smooth and balanced on palate moderate tannins, medium bodied. Very nice. 89, 4.0/5 Very good buy at $20. Doesn’t need long in decanter. Decant and serve. After some time in decanter, darker, leather and dark fruit notes come out. Easy drinking. Very good. RM
‘…aged for nine months in French and American oak…nose of cedar, mineral, tobacco, cassis, blueberry, and blackberry … smooth, flavors, good balance, and a seamless finish. – 90. JM (WA) 0139527
Cheers, Ross
October 10 Release – Italy – Big 3
by RossMorrison on Oct.21, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto. Those are the big three classic wine regions of Italy. Each has its own indigenous varietals and style of winemaking. Tuscany is where the modern trend of growing French (Bordeaux) grapes started with Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) and the birth of the Super Tuscan (French grapes done Italian). Since then the Super Tuscan style has evolved to include full on Left Bank blends such as Ornellaia, and wines that blend indigenous grapes such as Sangiovese with the Bordeaux varietals.
Quality – DOCG/IGT/DOC: The Italian classification system denotes top wine using quality indigenous grapes with DOCG, Denominazione de Origine Controllata e Gaurantita. The advent of the Super Tuscan, using non-indigenous grapes but yielding super premium quality, commanded recognition within the classification system. IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, denotes a premium/super premium wine that demonstrates characteristics derived from its location (Terroir). So, DOCG and IGT both denote quality, the difference is the inclusion of non native grapes with IGT. DOC is the quality designation below DOCG.
Piedmont: The star of Piedmont is Barolo (Nebbiolo grape). Classic Barolos require several years of cellaring but modern younger ageing ones are more accessible younger. At the other end is the enjoyable Dolcetto which is best consumed young (Buy and drink). Barbaresco lies somewhere between.
Tuscany: Sangiovese is the big indigenous grapes but it comes under many names/clones. Chianti, and Brunello are stars with good Chianti being capable of ageing and Brunello pretty much demanding significant cellar time before drinking. Then there are seemingly limitless blends of indigenous and imported varieties.
Veneto: The ‘Valpolicella blend’ dominates the red landscape here. Valpolicella is the area. Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara are the big three grapes. They start off in simple Valpolicella. When dried on racks before fermentation starts (appassimentto method), the grapes raisin and concentrate flavour and sugar. The result is full bodied very ageworthy Amarone or, if stopped mid way through fermentation – the delicious dessert wine Recioto. Between is Ripasso; Valpolicella is (re)passed over/fermented with the lees and skins left over from the making of Amarone, mmmm. Pinot Grigio, Soave, and sparkling Prosecco are whites of note from the region.
Italy – Veneto – Ripasso
2006 Farina Le Pezze Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore, DOC, $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Valpolicella blend EXCELLENT VALUE
Ok, this one is from Sept 26 but it is a great buy. Great for $15! Bright garnet colour, telltale Valpolicella dark cherry on nose, medium bodied, smooth with nice mouthfeel, slightly bitter. Smooth and easy drinking. Great with pesto. Great buy and drink Ripasso. Would be good as braising liquid or in beef stew. Better value now than Sa Solin Ripasso, which has crept up in price to $18. 88/4.0
‘…Approachable and food-friendly, pleasure written all over it. Red berries…dried fruit mingle with subtle spice notes, leading to a spicy/savoury finish. An ideal wine for baked lasagna, sun-dried tomato pizza, or a variety of rich pasta dishes.’– Vintages 134809
Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto
2007 Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani, DOCG, $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
In this case, Barolo refers to place rather than type of wine. Dolcetto is fruit forward and easy drinking. They tend to have moderate/low acidity and drink well within a year or two. RM
‘…Soft and fruity with delicious red berry flavours…medium bodied red is perfect for sipping on a quiet evening, or…with veal chops’– Vintages 134734
Italy – Piedmont – Barolo
2004 Fenocchio Bussia Barolo, DOCG, $41.95
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
Bussia is in the heart of Barolo country. This modern example should drink nicely now or age until about 8-10 years. Decant and let the air get at it. If you are interested in more serious Barolos check the Classics selections on the Vintages web site. RM
‘…blackberry, spring flowers and earth/truffles…dry…upfront fruit balanced with remarkably ripe tannins…bring on the lamb or roast beef with root vegetables’– Vintages 712273
Italy – Veneto – Prosecco Great Sparkling Value
Belcanto di Bellussi Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, DOC, $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Prosecco
This light and crisp sparkler is great as a started, party/reception drink, or mixed (Bellini or Kir Royale). It also makes a great substitute for Champagne when cooking (Sabayon, Wildberry Champagne Terrine, etc). RM
‘…Clean and crisp, floral and apple notes…medium+ balance and persistence. Nicely balanced wine’– Virginia Philip (tastedonline.com) 053215
Italy – Veneto – Amarone
2006 Zironda Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, $36.95
Drink now – 2016
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
Typical Amarone is big and full with flavours of dark cherry and chocolate. $35 seems to be the entry point for a good Amarone (drink now or hold a few years). Big alcohol (15-16%) goes with big flavour and full body. Decant – usually and hour or more. Match with big food flavours – Allio Olio Anchovie Pepperincino is a favorite match. Also great with dark chocolate (and desserts with cherries, chocolate). RM
‘Bursting with aromas of dark chocolate, black raspberry jam, cranberry and coffee…dry, intense, round and forceful…moderate tannins…full bodied, long finishing’– Virginia Philip (tastedonline.com) 053215
Italy – Tuscany – Chianti
2005 Il Grigio da San Felice Chianti Riserva, DOCG, $28.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 – James Suckling (Wine Spectator)
San Felice makes full bodied, complex Chiantis that are made to go with food. – RM
‘Shows very attractive plum and berry aromas, with vanilla bean undertones. Full bodied, rich, and velvety with a long fresh finish……’ – JS (WS) 716266
Italy – Tuscany – Super Tuscan
2006 Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto, IGT Toscana, $59.95
Drink now – 2016
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot
Even with the $60 price tag, Mormoreto is at the lower end of the Super Tuscan price range. A much earlier Mormoreto was the first Super Tuscan styled wine that I remember drinking (early 1990s) and recall it being wonderfull. Enjoy over first 10 years or so. Available in half bottles at $29.95 also.
‘…impressive Tuscan-take on Bordeaux…regal in stature…deep ruby/purple…dark berries, cinnamon, and leather…full bodied, classy with firm tannins…a powerhouse red to pair with roast beef or lamb’ – JS (WS) 716266
France – Beaujolais – for Thanksgiving turkey
2007 Domaine Boursisset Moulin-a-Vent AC, $18.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Gamay
Gold Medal at Concours des Grands Vin de France 2008
Not to be confused with nouveau plonk, the village of Moulin-a-Vent produces the best Cru Beaujolais year after year. This Village wine is likely light to medium bodied and smooth with notes of cherry, and perhaps earth or mushroom. RM
‘…very generous Gamay with aromas of black cherry and plum…dry…elegant…fine core of tannin that one expects to find in a cru Beaujolais…’ Vintages 129791
Spain – Ribera del Duero
Here are a couple of wines from Tinto Pesquera, one of the more notable wines of Ribera del Duero. The Crianza and Reserva make appearances here. I like the region of Ribera del Duero as the wines seem to have a bit more depth and complexity than that of the more familiar Rioja. If you are new to Spanish label lingo, Crianza denotes a minimum of 6 months in oak while Reserva gets a minimum of 12.
2006 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Crianza DO, $29.95
Drink now 2011
92+ Josh Raynolds, Int’l Wine Cellar
‘ bright ruby…exotically perfumed aromas of red berries, cherry, spicecake and sandalwood …becomes richer with air…plum compote and bitter chocolate…depth to age but plenty of complexity already’ JR (IWC) 341461
2005 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Reserva DO, $47.95
Drink now 2016
93+ Josh Raynolds, Int’l Wine Cellar
‘ Inky ruby…ripe red and dark berries, smoky minerals, aged beef, baking spices and flowers. Sweet black raspberry and cassis flavours…youthful bitter tannins…vanilla bean…already showing some complexity…’ JR (IWC) 323345
Cheers, Ross
September 26 – Napa
by RossMorrison on Oct.13, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Napa Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Joseph Phelps Inisfree Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $36.95
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
Phelps is a well established produced of quality wines, some of which are in the super premium category. 2006 was good for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa, so the Inisfree should be a good benchmark in the $35 range. Drink now or hold for a few years. -RM
‘…forward and approachable…aromas and flavours of mulled spices, red fruit, coffee and cedar…long concentrated finish…’ – Vintages 038125
2007 Stonehedge Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $24.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 could be a great year for Napa Cabernet. The Stonehedge Reserve provides a chance to try out the vintage at a reasonable price, and with a wine that should drink well now (decant). -RM
‘…ripe blackcurrant aromas and silky tannins…big enough to stand up to grilled steak but soft enough to be enjoyed on its own’ – Vintages 025122
2007 Rutherford Hill Chardonnay, Napa Valley, $24.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Chardonnay
Rutherford Hill is another well established winery. 2007 may also be a great Chardonnay year for Napa. The description from Vintages for this wine sounds like classic Napa Chardonnay. -RM
‘…Delicate, gossamer like aromas of peaches, tropical fruit and buttery, smoky oak notes…dry, balanced, easy drinking… – Vintages 980433
2007 Southbrook Triomphe Syrah, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Syrah
90 – John Szabo (wineaccess.ca)
Syrah is another red variety that does well in Niagara. John Szabo gives this one a 90. -RM
‘…medium deep ruby red with purple…fresh, juicy peppery black and red fruit…lots of varietal character…surprisingly soft and plush tannins…’ JS (WA) 129809
Ontario – Dessert – Late Harvest
2007 Huff Estate First Frost Vidal, Prince Edward County, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Vidal
4.5 stars – Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)
The grapes for late harvest wines are left on the vine past normal harvest. The grapes lose moisture and concentrate, but not as much as the frozen grapes of ice-wine. The result is a concentration of fruit flavours, but medium sweetness. This one also uses some of the grape juice that is put aside and added back after fermentation (suss-reserve). This could be an interesting wine to try with blue cheese or fruit based desserts. -RM
‘…peach, apricot and tropical fruit…balanced with heady acidity…’ – VH (WC 713024
Mexico – Petite Syrah –Great value
2007 L.A. Cetto Petite Syrah, Guadelupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: 40% Grenache, 40%Syrah, 20% Carignan
89 – Natalie MacLean (nataliemaclean.com)
Ok, this is a bit of a quaffer, and it’s been in these notes before, but for $11.95 it is difficult to beat in terms of a big fruit forward, easy drinking econo-wine. Try with grilled steak, BBQ fare or pizza. Natalie MacLean has a few matches below. – RM
‘…Juicy, round and ripe…aromas of black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke…matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas…’ – NM 983742
France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf
2006 Domaine de la Cote de L’Ange Chateauneuf du Pape, AC, $34.95
Drink now – 2020
Grapes: Chateauneuf blend
91 – James Molesworth – Wine Spectator
At $35 this should be a great value, relative to other Chateauneufs. Compared to some of the premium cellar worthy Chateauneufs – Clos du Papes, Beaucastel, etc, the price is very reasonable. It is even reasonably priced compared to the mass produced Chateauneuf in the twisty sandblasted bottle found in general listings (woof). Try one bottle and go back for more if you like it. If drinking now give it and hour or more in the decanter. RM
‘Really dark aromatics of coffee, charcoal, and braised chestnut…structured palate of black currant, hoisin sauce, tar and bittersweet cocoa…old school with a gravelly feel on the finish.…’ – JM (WS) 074856
France – Vin de Pays (Southern France)
2007 Mas des Brassades Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, Vin de Pay du Gard, $18.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Cab/Syrah
This wine is a perennial value pick for lovers of big fruit forward Shiraz like wine. The Vin de Pay produces both Cabernet and Rhone varietals such as Syrah. Here they are together; the Syrah dominates the Cab on this one with overall effect similar to new world (South Australia) big fruity Shiraz. Deep purple colour, big dark fruit on nose, and hint of tar and tobacco. Not too complex, but smoothened out and opened up nicely after and hour to 1 1/2 hours in decanter. Easy drinking – good with rib eye steak – very enjoyable. RM
‘…Cabernet Sauvignon vines are over 65 years of aged (good) and the Syrah vines average 35 years…medium bodied…packed with cassis, blackberry, earth and spice notes…ripe tannins and acidity providing structure …’ Vintages 712174
Italy – Ornellaia – Super Tuscan Collectible
2006 Ornellaia DOC Bolgheri Superiore, $174.95
Drink now 2016-2026
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot
97 Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate)
95 James Suckling (Wine Spectator
Ornellaia is the Left Bank of Bordeaux done Tuscan style and done well…year after year. Many wines demand big prices because of reputation and name. Ornellaia is one that has delivered on the ‘wow’ factor every time I have tasted it. There are a few wine icons that have not delivered as well or consistently. It is expensive now, but will be more expensive later (the 1997 is in the $500 range per bottle at auction). Put some away and it will be a gem at age 10, and go for up to another 10 years. RM
‘…layers of minerals, cassis, tar, sweet herbs and French oak…superb freshness and awesome balance…sheer intensity almost hides the tannins…will ultimately benefit from a few years in the cellar…’ – Antonio Galloni (WA) 722470
Italy – Tuscany – Chianti
2005 Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, $43.95
Drink now 2015 – 2020
Grapes: Sangiovese
This is Ruffino’s flagship wine. Chianti Classico is the location, Riserva denotes the premium wine, and DOCG is the value guarantee for indigenous grapes in Italy. Last year I tasted a Ducale Oro that was well aged but not from an outstanding year and it was very good. 2005 was a good year. If you like Chianti, buy a few and put them away. You’ll be rewarded in a few years. RM
‘…deep, rich and flavourful…lay it down for up to 10 years…’ – Vintages 353201
Italy – Tuscany – Sangiovese blend
2004 Sasso al Poggio IGT Toscana, $23.95 Super Tuscan Value
Drink now 2011
Grapes: Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
90 James Suckling (Wine Spectator
Tuscany gained international repute over the last 30+ years by bringing in French grapes and growing them well. One of the trends to emerge is a variety of blends. Some, like Ornellaia mirror the traditional Bordeaux blend. Sassicaia, the original Super Tuscan, started out 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and now has 15% Cab Franc (watch for Sassicaia in November release). Others combine indigenous grapes, predominantly Sangiovese, with the grapes of Bordeaux, with excellent results. At $23 and 90 points from James Suckling, this Sangiovese – French blend may not be a Super Tuscan, but will be a Super Tuscan Value. RM
‘…very jammy for the vintage, with plum and raspberry character. Full and very soft with round tannins and a long caressing finish, best after 2009..’ – James Suckling (WS) 134809
Cheers, Ross
September 12 – Ontario
by RossMorrison on Sep.09, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
As with other wine regions, some years are better for Ontario than others. Recent memorable Ontario vintages include 1998, 2002; 2005. Hot and dry conditions produced small concentrated berries, wine with concentrated flavour and body. Over the last few years I have been impressed with the Bordeaux style blends (Meritage) and whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Why not try something local from a good vintage.
Ontario – Niagara
2007 Tawse Sketches of Niagara Merlot/Cabernet, VQA Niagara, $19.95
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
The second label of Tawse gets the nod as a wine of the month from Vintages. Wines of the month are generally a safe bet at the price point. This should drink well now with some decanting time, or over the next few years.-RM
‘…appealing Bordeaux style…serious structure, remarkable purity of fruit and refreshing acidity…4/5 stars…’ – Christopher Waters (Vines) 130252
2007 Lailey Pinot Noir, VQA Niagara River, $24.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Wines from Lailey seem to sell out at the winery so we don’t see them in stores too often. They produce consistently good reds. -RM
‘…black cherry, spring flowers, cocoa and beetroot aromas. Dry, round and textured…moderate tannins…medium bodied’ – Vintages 591404
2007 Malivoire Gamay, VQA Niagara Escarpment, $17.95
Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Gold Medal at 2009 Ontario Wine Awards
91- Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
Ontario Gamay tends to be bigger and bolder than Gamay from the Beaujolais region in Burgundy. This one got a gold medal at the recent Ontario Wine Awards. -RM
‘…vanilla bean, sumptuous black cherry…hint of black currants in the aromas…cola, cassis and black cherry depth… – GS (TS) 591313
2007 Southbrook Triomphe Syrah, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Syrah
90 – John Szabo (wineaccess.ca)
Syrah is another red variety that does well in Niagara. John Szabo gives this one a 90. -RM
‘…medium deep ruby red with purple…fresh, juicy peppery black and red fruit…lots of varietal character…surprisingly soft and plush tannins…’ JS (WA) 129809
Australia – Shiraz
2006 Elderton Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia, $29.95
Drink now – 2016
Grapes: Shiraz
91 – Jay Miller (WA)
Here is another wine from Elderton, one of Barossa’s better producers. From Jay Millers’ description this wine should be a classic example of Barossa Shiraz. -RM
‘…deep crimson…multifaceted perfume of smoke, black pepper, bacon, and blueberry…smooth textured, ripe Shiraz…layers of savory fruit, soft tannins…’ – JM (WA) 713024
France – Midi – Value Cellar Pick
2004 Chateau Pech-Redon L’Épervier, AC Coteaux du Languedoc, $19.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: 40% Grenache, 40%Syrah, 20% Carignan
90 – David Schildknecht (WA)
The Languedoc is a good source of value wines, especially those with Grenache/Syrah blends. This one is blended with Carignan, another grape of Southern France. Try one to see if it measures up to the review then put a few away for 3-5 years and try again. Give it some decanting time for tannins to soften up if opening now. – RM
‘…nose of kirsch macerated dried cherries, black currants and walnuts…sweet black fruits…herbs…slight firmness of tannin not being at all obtrusive…’ – DS (WS) 129965
Italy – Veneto – Quintarelli
2000 Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $89.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Valpolicella blend
4 1/5 of 5 stars – Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)
Quintarelli is a legend of the Veneto region. His Amarone goes for hundreds of dollars a bottle. If you want to try the best of Valpolicella this is the one, and from a great vintage. RM
‘…rich and well structured…aromas of dried spicy berry fruit…mulberry and red cherry…moderated by a stream of zest and tang… well balanced…’ – VH (WC) 986117
Italy – Veneto – Amarone
2004 Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC, $44.95
Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Valpolicella blend
5 of 5 Stars – Tom Hyland (learnitalianwines.com)
This sounds like a modern styled (accessible young) Amarone that should drink well now and over the next few years. Amarone, made with dried (concentrated) grapes by the appassimentto technique tends to be full bodied with big flavours. Hyland’s description suggests a lighter than traditional Amarone, hence good early drinking but enough structure to cellar a few years. RM
‘Light, bright ruby red with aromas of tobacco, coriander, and red cherry…medium-full…good to excellent concentration…long finish with excellent fruit persistence, lively acidity and polished tannins…’ – TH 685107
Spain – Rioja – Organic
2007 Navarrsotillo Noemus Joven DOC, $14.95
Drink now 2011
Grapes: 60% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 20% Mazuelo
Gold Medal at Millésime Bio 2009
Joven means short barrel ageing and wine suited to drinking young. This Tempranillo Garnacha Mazuelo blend should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit. Wines like this one from Rioja tend to be nicely balanced with smooth tannins. RM
‘Bursting with ripe berry fruit and a hint of raisin…round fleshy…fine balance and a bit of tannic grip…’ – Vintages 131839
Spain – Ribera del Duero
2004 Torrederos Tinto Crianza DO, Ribera del Duero, $24.95
Drink now 2015
91 Jay Miller (WA)
The Crianza designation means longer barrel and bottle ageing than Joven. At 5 years this should be ready to drink, but some Crianza’s may develop in the cellar for a few years. Wines from Ribera del Duero seem to have a bit more complexity and concentration compared to Rioja, but retain the smoothness and balance of Rioja wines.RM
‘…dark ruby…aromas of pencil lead, earth, mushroom, vanilla and blackberry…medium to full bodied…will evolve for several years…’ – JM (WA) 114314
Cheers, Ross
August 29 – Rhone Valley
by RossMorrison on Sep.01, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé. Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.
Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier. The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France. In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label. Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring. Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.
Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf
2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95 Great value
Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone. Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone. With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well. Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years. At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195
Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras
2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so. Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level. Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker. Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time. If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013
Tavel – Rosé
2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95
Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays. Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé. This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309
Northern Rhone – Syrah
2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95 Cellar Pick
Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring. Here is one from the great 2005 vintage. Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours). This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054
2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage. You get some of the character at often a much better price. This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712
California – Zin
2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS) #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30. -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151
France –Bordeaux
2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend
This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol). This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years. Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM
‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666
Italy – Piedmont
2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young. It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit. RM
‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176
Piedmont – Barolo Bargain
2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95 Exceptional value
Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price. The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004). Decant it and let it open up. This wine should be full flavoured and smooth. This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age. RM
‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527
Cheers, Ross
August 15 – Chile
by RossMorrison on Aug.18, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Chile is divided by mountains into a number of valleys which generally run north-south. Amongst the varied terrain and conditions, they grow a variety of both red and white varieties. Although there are a handful of producers that command premium pricing, the bulk of wine produced seems to be economical ‘buy and drink’ wine or suitable for short term ageing. They do make some nice full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. Carmenère which was once mistaken (or touted as) Merlot is another French grape that is no longer planted significantly in France but has done well in Chile. Two things to look at when you find a bottle of Chilean wine that you like are 1) the valley, and 2) the producer. This will help you find others that you may enjoy as well.
Chile – Chardonnay
2007 Montes Alpha Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley Special Cuvee, $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)
4 things indicate that this could be a good pick: 1) Montes Alpha is a reliable producer in the price range, 2) Casablanca Valley is a good valley, 3) Vintages has picked it as a cover item (part advertising, part should be good) and finally 4) Josh Raynolds, a reliable critic likes it. -RM
‘…light gold…aromas of white peach, tarragon, floral honey and smoky lees…citrus and pit fruit flavors…buttered toast and baking spices…’ – JR (Int’l Wine Cellar) 390203
Chile – Cabernet
2006 Santa Rita Medalla Real Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
A Santa Rita was one of the first very enjoyable Chilean Cabs that I had, back in the early 1990’s. Santa Rita continues to be a good name for Cabernet. The Maipo Valley is one of the most successful. -RM
‘Ripe and concentrated…macerated current, fig paste, espresso, loam and black licorice notes…dense but integrated tannins…’ – JM (WS) 275594
Chile – Carmenère Vintages Wine of the Month
2007 Concha y Toro Winemakers Lot 148 Carmenere, Rapel Valley, Las Ptatuas Vineyard $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Carmenère
This Carmenère gets the nod from Vintages as a wine of the month, and won the Grand Trophy at Chile’s 2nd annual Carmenère Competition in 2009; that makes it worth a try. -RM
‘…deep ruby purple…nose of ripe cassis, dark chocolate, sage, cedar… – Vintages 146258
Chile – Syrah
2007 Montes Alpha Syrah, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $22.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Syrah
90 – James Molesworth (WS)
He I’m looking at 3 things: 1) Montes Alpha is a good producer, 2) The Colchagua is a good valley, and 3) Syrah might do well in a climate that produces good Cabernet and Chardonnay. I would expect more of a cool climate Northern Rhone style vs. a hot climate Barossa Valley Shiraz. For $22.95 it could be interesting to try if you enjoy a good Syrah. -RM
‘Alluring with roasted coffee and vanilla bean note…rich palate of dark cherry, mulled currant and blackberry fruit…’ JM (WS) 000612
Australia – Shiraz Cabernet Blend
2006 Elderton E Series Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, $14.95
Drink now -2010
Grapes: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon
88 Harvey Steiman (WS)
This is a lower end wine from the very good producer – Elderton. At $15 this could be a very good quaffer and great with bbq fare or spicy chicken. Just last night I shared a bottle of Elderton’s 2001 CSM (Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot) which was outstanding. The CSM was great with a chicken baked and seasoned with a bbq sauce/allspice combo – very good.- RM
‘Smooth and round…peppery note riding over the dark berry and licorice flavours…mild grip of tannins.’ HS (WS) 108043
France – Midi – Viognier
2008 Domaine des Aspes Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, $14.95
Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
Viognier is one of the grapes that goes into Chateauneuf du Pape (red) even though it is a white. It is rich with floral aromatics. Viognier does well on its own across southern France. -RM
‘one of the most consistent Viogniers of the Languedoc…pit fruits, garrique, melon and pear…enjoy with spiced seafood dishes’ – Vintages 712638
France – Bargain Bordeaux
2005 Chateau Roquetaillade la Grange Vieilles Vignes, AC Graves, $21.95
Drink 2010 – 2012
Grapes: Left bank blend
90 James Suckling (WS)
We are still seeing wines from the big 2005 vintage, and prices are starting to improve due to the recession. This moderately priced wine from Graves (for Gravel – a good thing) is only $22 and gets a 90 from Suckling of the Spectator. He says best after 2010; it probably will be at its best from then to 2012 but can be enjoyed now with some decanting time. – RM
‘…aromas of crushed blackberry and light spices. Full bodied with just a hint of new wood. Needs time…’ – JS (WS) 125666
France – Southwest – Malbec
2005 Clos du Chene 100% Malbec, AC Cahors, $15.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Malbec.
Malbec used to be a French grape before becoming renowned as an Argentinean grape. Cahors is the region for Malbec and they are starting to grow it again. Why not try one from a great vintage like 2005 that was great for all of France. RM
‘Opulent damson, vanilla, licorice aroma. Vibrant fruit on mid palate. Elegant, long…’ – Vintages 129064
Australia – Duo from a good Barossa producer
Barossa Valley is a good producer, and Ebenezer is a small village in the Barossa Valley. Here are a couple of good single vineyard examples worthy of cellaring 3-5 years.
2004 Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon, $39.95
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon.
94 James Halliday (Aussie wine critic)
‘…complex cabernet, dark chocolate and mocha…luscious black currant fruit…even better than the 05. Drink until 2014’ – James Halliday 039537
2004 Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz, $39.95
Drink 2011 – 2014
Grapes: Shiraz
93 Harvey Steiman (WS)
‘…firm in texture, aromatically dramatic…smoky roasted coffee…blackberry, black cherry….just needs time…’ – Vintages 650713
Cheers, Ross
July 4th – Oregon Pinot
by RossMorrison on Jul.03, 2009, under LCBO Reviews
Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.
Oregon Pinot
2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043
Ontario – Chardonnay
2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65
Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601
California – Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258
California Fumé Blanc
2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887
Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard
1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539
Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois
2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick
Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904
France – Vin de Pays – Viognier
2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95
Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier
Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM
‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295
Spain – Rioja
2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008
The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM
‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929
Cheers, Ross