Canadian Wino(s)

Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto. Those are the big three classic wine regions of Italy. Each has its own indigenous varietals and style of winemaking. Tuscany is where the modern trend of growing French (Bordeaux) grapes started with Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) and the birth of the Super Tuscan (French grapes done Italian). Since then the Super Tuscan style has evolved to include full on Left Bank blends such as Ornellaia, and wines that blend indigenous grapes such as Sangiovese with the Bordeaux varietals.

Quality – DOCG/IGT/DOC: The Italian classification system denotes top wine using quality indigenous grapes with DOCG, Denominazione de Origine Controllata e Gaurantita. The advent of the Super Tuscan, using non-indigenous grapes but yielding super premium quality, commanded recognition within the classification system. IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, denotes a premium/super premium wine that demonstrates characteristics derived from its location (Terroir). So, DOCG and IGT both denote quality, the difference is the inclusion of non native grapes with IGT. DOC is the quality designation below DOCG.

Piedmont: The star of Piedmont is Barolo (Nebbiolo grape). Classic Barolos require several years of cellaring but modern younger ageing ones are more accessible younger. At the other end is the enjoyable Dolcetto which is best consumed young (Buy and drink). Barbaresco lies somewhere between.

Tuscany: Sangiovese is the big indigenous grapes but it comes under many names/clones. Chianti, and Brunello are stars with good Chianti being capable of ageing and Brunello pretty much demanding significant cellar time before drinking. Then there are seemingly limitless blends of indigenous and imported varieties.

Veneto: The ‘Valpolicella blend’ dominates the red landscape here. Valpolicella is the area. Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara are the big three grapes. They start off in simple Valpolicella. When dried on racks before fermentation starts (appassimentto method), the grapes raisin and concentrate flavour and sugar. The result is full bodied very ageworthy Amarone or, if stopped mid way through fermentation – the delicious dessert wine Recioto. Between is Ripasso; Valpolicella is (re)passed over/fermented with the lees and skins left over from the making of Amarone, mmmm. Pinot Grigio, Soave, and sparkling Prosecco are whites of note from the region.

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2006 Farina Le Pezze Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore, DOC, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Valpolicella blend EXCELLENT VALUE

Ok, this one is from Sept 26 but it is a great buy. Great for $15! Bright garnet colour, telltale Valpolicella dark cherry on nose, medium bodied, smooth with nice mouthfeel, slightly bitter. Smooth and easy drinking. Great with pesto. Great buy and drink Ripasso. Would be good as braising liquid or in beef stew. Better value now than Sa Solin Ripasso, which has crept up in price to $18. 88/4.0

‘…Approachable and food-friendly, pleasure written all over it. Red berries…dried fruit mingle with subtle spice notes, leading to a spicy/savoury finish. An ideal wine for baked lasagna, sun-dried tomato pizza, or a variety of rich pasta dishes.’– Vintages 134809

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani, DOCG, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto

In this case, Barolo refers to place rather than type of wine. Dolcetto is fruit forward and easy drinking. They tend to have moderate/low acidity and drink well within a year or two. RM

‘…Soft and fruity with delicious red berry flavours…medium bodied red is perfect for sipping on a quiet evening, or…with veal chops’– Vintages 134734

Italy – Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Fenocchio Bussia Barolo, DOCG, $41.95

Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo

Bussia is in the heart of Barolo country. This modern example should drink nicely now or age until about 8-10 years. Decant and let the air get at it. If you are interested in more serious Barolos check the Classics selections on the Vintages web site. RM

‘…blackberry, spring flowers and earth/truffles…dry…upfront fruit balanced with remarkably ripe tannins…bring on the lamb or roast beef with root vegetables’– Vintages 712273

Italy – Veneto – Prosecco Great Sparkling Value

Belcanto di Bellussi Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, DOC, $17.95

Drink now
Grapes: Prosecco

This light and crisp sparkler is great as a started, party/reception drink, or mixed (Bellini or Kir Royale). It also makes a great substitute for Champagne when cooking (Sabayon, Wildberry Champagne Terrine, etc). RM

‘…Clean and crisp, floral and apple notes…medium+ balance and persistence. Nicely balanced wine’– Virginia Philip (tastedonline.com) 053215

Italy – Veneto – Amarone

2006 Zironda Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, $36.95

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend

Typical Amarone is big and full with flavours of dark cherry and chocolate. $35 seems to be the entry point for a good Amarone (drink now or hold a few years). Big alcohol (15-16%) goes with big flavour and full body. Decant – usually and hour or more. Match with big food flavours – Allio Olio Anchovie Pepperincino is a favorite match. Also great with dark chocolate (and desserts with cherries, chocolate). RM

‘Bursting with aromas of dark chocolate, black raspberry jam, cranberry and coffee…dry, intense, round and forceful…moderate tannins…full bodied, long finishing’– Virginia Philip (tastedonline.com) 053215

Italy – Tuscany – Chianti

2005 Il Grigio da San Felice Chianti Riserva, DOCG, $28.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 – James Suckling (Wine Spectator)

San Felice makes full bodied, complex Chiantis that are made to go with food. – RM

‘Shows very attractive plum and berry aromas, with vanilla bean undertones. Full bodied, rich, and velvety with a long fresh finish……’ – JS (WS) 716266

Italy – Tuscany – Super Tuscan

2006 Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto, IGT Toscana, $59.95

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot

Even with the $60 price tag, Mormoreto is at the lower end of the Super Tuscan price range. A much earlier Mormoreto was the first Super Tuscan styled wine that I remember drinking (early 1990s) and recall it being wonderfull. Enjoy over first 10 years or so. Available in half bottles at $29.95 also.

‘…impressive Tuscan-take on Bordeaux…regal in stature…deep ruby/purple…dark berries, cinnamon, and leather…full bodied, classy with firm tannins…a powerhouse red to pair with roast beef or lamb’ – JS (WS) 716266

France – Beaujolais – for Thanksgiving turkey

2007 Domaine Boursisset Moulin-a-Vent AC, $18.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Gamay
Gold Medal at Concours des Grands Vin de France 2008

Not to be confused with nouveau plonk, the village of Moulin-a-Vent produces the best Cru Beaujolais year after year. This Village wine is likely light to medium bodied and smooth with notes of cherry, and perhaps earth or mushroom. RM

‘…very generous Gamay with aromas of black cherry and plum…dry…elegant…fine core of tannin that one expects to find in a cru Beaujolais…’ Vintages 129791

Spain – Ribera del Duero

Here are a couple of wines from Tinto Pesquera, one of the more notable wines of Ribera del Duero. The Crianza and Reserva make appearances here. I like the region of Ribera del Duero as the wines seem to have a bit more depth and complexity than that of the more familiar Rioja. If you are new to Spanish label lingo, Crianza denotes a minimum of 6 months in oak while Reserva gets a minimum of 12.

2006 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Crianza DO, $29.95

Drink now 2011
92+ Josh Raynolds, Int’l Wine Cellar

‘ bright ruby…exotically perfumed aromas of red berries, cherry, spicecake and sandalwood …becomes richer with air…plum compote and bitter chocolate…depth to age but plenty of complexity already’ JR (IWC) 341461

2005 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Reserva DO, $47.95

Drink now 2016
93+ Josh Raynolds, Int’l Wine Cellar

‘ Inky ruby…ripe red and dark berries, smoky minerals, aged beef, baking spices and flowers. Sweet black raspberry and cassis flavours…youthful bitter tannins…vanilla bean…already showing some complexity…’ JR (IWC) 323345

Cheers, Ross