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Archive for May 14th, 2009

Lucien Le Moine – 2006 Burgundy tasting at FWR

by on May.14, 2009, under Wine Events

On Apr 23 I attended a tasting at the Fine Wine Reserve.  Artisanal Wine Imports, 416-238-6634, presented a selection of their wines.  There were some good Pinots  and a nice Cab Franc from Prince Edward County.

The highlight was several Lucien Le Moine Burgundies from 2006.  This made me re-evaluate my impression of 2006 Burgundy.  Le Moines wines were a cut above those offered at the recent 2006/07 Burg tasting at the King Eddie.  They ranged from $50 for Bourgogne’s to over $400, with many in the $100-$150 range.  They have brought in about 25 Lucien Le Moine 2006 Burgundies.  Most are Premier or Grand Cru.  We tasted about 4 whites and about 6 reds.  Of the reds at the tasting, the Grand Cru Clos Vougeot, was the best – over the top.  This wine had everything – fruit, complexity, depth, smoothness, structure.  My pick of the Premier Cru reds was the Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes.  Other guests preferred the Morey St. Denis; it is a matter of preference.

The whites were equally impressive, even the Bourgogne!  The Chassagne Montrachet Embrazees was the favorite here.

These are low production (50-70 barrels each) wines of high quality that won’t see store shelves.  They are available only in 6 pack cases.  The Clos Vougeot is available in the May Classics catalogue.

If you are a serious fan of Burgundy or Burgundy collector, give the gentleman at Artisanal a call to see if they still have any cases of Le Moine Burgundies available.

Cheers,

Ross

Ontario Tasting: June 16 6:30 at the Distillery.  http://www.vintages.com/events/sip-ontario-wines_en.html  Here’s your chance to support the local economy by finding out which local wines you prefer.

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May 2 – Tuscany & California

by on May.14, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross

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